Are there natural treatments for xerosis?

Hydrating and nourishing, shea butter is a must-have for dry to very dry skin. Thanks to its richness in fatty acids, this ingredient can strengthen the hydrolipidic film present on the surface of the epidermis and provide the necessary nutrients to the stratum corneum. Shea butter thus enhances the skin's barrier function and limits transepidermal water loss. Studies suggest that it has topical properties similar to those of ceramides, the lipids naturally present in the epidermis responsible for the tightness of the skin barrier. Shea butter and its components are sometimes even referred to as phytoceramides.

Several studies have shown that the topical application of shea butter is beneficial for dry skin. One such study involved 81 individuals suffering from xerosis. Divided into two groups, the volunteers applied a cream made from shea butter and glycerine or a cream made from urea and glycerine once a day for four months. At the end of the study, the researchers measured a 28.6% reduction in the xerosis score (ODSS) in the trunk area among individuals in the first group. This decrease was comparable to that observed in the volunteers of the second group. Although glycerine, known for its moisturising power, probably contributed to these good results, shea butter likely played an equally important role. In this study, it was evaluated within a formulation, but it is good to know that it is also commonly used in its pure state.

Oats are a natural ingredient often used to soothe sensitive, irritated, extremely dry skin or skin affected by eczema. Several studies have confirmed its soothing and moisturising properties, particularly due to the beta-glucan it contains. This molecule works by inhibiting the activity of several inflammation markers, such as interleukins 1, 6, 10 and 12 (IL-1, IL-6, IL-10 and IL-12), the tumour necrosis factor (TNF-α) and cyclooxygenase (COX), but also by attracting and retaining water in the superficial layers of the skin, thus improving its suppleness. Oats are traditionally used in the form of a mask, but can also be incorporated into creams or serums.

The benefits of oats in cases of xerosis have been the subject of several studies, one of which was conducted with sixty women divided into two groups, each presenting with moderate to severe bilateral xerosis on the lower part of their legs. Two creams were tested: one containing oats and the other with an identical formulation, but without oats. The participants were instructed to apply the products to the lower part of their legs twice a day for 3 weeks. A significantly greater reduction in skin dryness was recorded for those who applied the oat-based cream (89% versus 74%). Furthermore, after testing both formulations, 86.7% of the participants stated they preferred the one containing oats.

A plant from the Asphodelaceae family, the aloe vera is easily recognisable by its thick and fleshy leaves, reminiscent of the structure of a lotus flower, from which a gel highly popular in cosmetics can be extracted. Indeed, when applied topically, aloe vera gel is a good humectant, capable of retaining water in the stratum corneum. This property is linked to its richness in hygroscopic molecules and amino acids, such as histidine, serine, arginine, threonine, and glycine, which improve water retention in the epidermis. Aloe vera gel is also recognised for its soothing action, stemming from its ability to limit the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α and interleukin-6.

The efficacy of aloe vera gel in caring for skin prone to xerosis was tested in a clinical study conducted in 2020. For this purpose, 40 patients suffering from xerosis were recruited and divided into five groups. Each group received the same moisturising cream, with only the concentration of aloe vera gel varying: 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% or 100%. After three weeks of daily application, an improvement in the xerosis score proportional to the concentration of aloe vera gel was observed. Although further work involving more participants is necessary, this study provides an interesting insight into the moisturising properties of the aloe vera gel and its action on xerosis.