Choix dissolvant sans acétone.

Why is it better to choose an acetone-free nail polish remover?

When it comes to removing nail polish, it is often said that it's better to choose a remover that does not contain acetone. Where does this claim come from and is it justified? Find the answer to these questions in this article.

Does the acetone found in nail polish removers damage the nails?

Nail polish removers often contain acetone, an organic solvent capable of rapidly breaking down the pigments found in nail varnishes. However, its effectiveness is a double-edged sword: in addition to removing nail polish, it has the ability to dissolve the protective lipids of the skin and nails. This phenomenon is due to acetone's affinity for lipophilic molecules, that is, those that retain fats. Thus, when an acetone-based nail polish remover is applied to the nails, it attracts and removes the organic pigments of nail varnishes as well as natural skin lipids, thereby weakening the nails. As a result, they are more likely to crack and break. Another consequence of regular use of acetone-based removers is the effect of this molecule on the water balance of the skin and nails. As acetone is a highly volatile solvent, it causes a rapid loss of moisture which contributes to nail damage.

Structure chimique de l'acétone.
Chemical structure of acetone.
Source: JOHANSON G. Acetone. Patty's Toxicology (2012).

A study has examined the effects of nail polish removers containing varying concentrations of acetone on the hydration and mechanical properties of nails. In the absence of acetone, propylene carbonate, a solvent also capable of removing nail polish, was used. Various measurements were taken before and after the application of the removers. The results, compiled in the table below, show a correlation between a high concentration of acetone and nail damage.

Evaluated CriterionAcetone-Free Nail Polish Remover5% Acetone Remover100% Acetone Remover
Nail Roughness37.44 ± 8.82 (before); 37.34 ± 4.31 (after)37.66 ± 5.90 (before); 35.09 ± 6.10 (after)37.50 ± 5.64 (before); 28.09 ± 5.50 (after)
Nail Water Content1.024 ± 0.267 (before); 1.001 ± 0.267 (after)0.960 ± 0.291 (before); 0.753 ± 0.284 (after)1.021 ± 0.268 (before); 0.735 ± 0.236 (after)
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) of the nails15.12 ± 4.34 (before); 16.03 ± 3.59 (after)15.10 ± 3.66 (before); 17.41 ± 3.06 (after)15.59 ± 2.51 (before); 18.30 ± 2.94 (after)
Effects of various solvents on the water-related and mechanical properties of nails.
Source: LI S. H. & co. Study on the Impact of Gel Nail Remover Liquid on the Nail Based on Acetone Concentration. Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (2019).

Indeed, acetone tends to weaken the nails.

The acetone-free nail polish remover did not impact the hydration or roughness of the nails. However, it was slightly less effective in removing the nail polish, as shown in the following images. These were taken with three participants 5, 10, 15, and 20 minutes after using the remover. Nevertheless, even though it took longer as the nails were not rubbed, the acetone-free remover still completely removed the nail polish.

Morphologie des ongles après utilisation de dissolvants à différentes concentrations en acétone.
Nail morphology following the use of nail varnish removers with varying concentrations of acetone.
Source: LI S. H. & co. Study on the Impact of Gel Nail Remover Liquid on the Nail Based on Acetone Concentration. Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (2019).

Are acetone-based removers harmful to health?

The impact of acetone on health also raises questions. While there is no scientific evidence of its absorption by the body through topical application, the risks posed by its inhalation are more concerning. Indeed, at high concentrations, acetone can cause headaches, dizziness, and irritation of the respiratory mucous membranes. In asthmatic individuals, it can exacerbate symptoms. However, when acetone is used at the common doses of domestic use, health authorities do not consider it to be dangerous to health.

The question is more pertinent for professionals in the aesthetics industry, who work daily with acetone in enclosed spaces that are not always sufficiently ventilated. In the long run, some report recurring migraines or chronic skin irritations. That's why it's recommended for owners of aesthetic salons to properly ventilate their establishment, to prevent those working there from suffering from prolonged exposure to acetone. Of course, there are alternatives to replace acetone in removers, such as ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, but these substitute solvents are also volatile and can irritate the skin and respiratory tract.

Is the acetone in removers harmful to the environment?

Acetone is a volatile solvent that rapidly degrades in air and water, which limits its accumulation in the environment. It is not considered a persistent pollutant, but that does not mean it is without impact. When released in large quantities, particularly by the chemical industry, it can contaminate water and affect aquatic ecosystems. High concentrations of acetone in water can alter the metabolism and behaviour of fish by disrupting their nervous system. Moreover, the high volatility of acetone contributes to the formation of tropospheric ozone, a harmful atmospheric pollutant classified in the category of greenhouse gases.

However, acetone-free removers are not necessarily more environmentally friendly. Some contain alternative solvents, such as ethyl acetate or butyl acetate, which, although biodegradable, pose a high toxicity to aquatic life. These solvents can alter the physiology of fish and other marine species by affecting their respiration and nervous system.

Sources

Diagnostic

Understand your skin
and its complex needs.