Brittle nails: how to strengthen them?

Regularly applying a strengthening treatment to your bare nails can be considered to restructure the nail plate, resulting in flexible and resilient nails. Such treatments work by filling the microscopic gaps in the nail and hydrating it, making it less likely to be damaged. They are formulated from a combination of active ingredients (silanediol salicylate, Pistacia lentiscus gum, keratin, silicon, etc.), which increase the quantity and quality of silicon and keratin in the nails.

They also contain moisturising agents (panthenol, hyaluronic acid, glycerine, urea, etc.) that adhere to the surface to strengthen and consolidate the structure of the nail, and deeply hydrate the cuticles, thus contributing to the maintenance of the barrier function and protecting it from dryness. To improve the appearance of nails, this type of care also incorporates film-forming agents (polyurethane, nitrocellulose, etc.) in order to create a continuous, flexible film that is impermeable to environmental risks. This combination of ingredients thus promotes the natural process of nail growth.

A strengthener for brittle nails to recommend?

With its aqueous texture and non-greasy finish, our hand & nail serum regenerates weakened nails, and hydrates and softens the nails and their contours thanks to its 93% naturally derived ingredients. Designed to be in affinity with the nail, our biomimetic formula has been developed from plant keratin (INCI: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) and biotin , which strengthen the natural keratinisation of the nail plate, intensely nourish the nails and promote their growth. This fortifying solution also contains hyaluronic acid (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate) and panthenol, ingredients that prevent the nail from drying out.

It can be used both as a treatment course or as a daily application on bare nails or on the cuticles of manicured nails. After just a few applications, nails regain their strength and vitality, with effects noticeable from the first application. Suitable for both hands and feet, it should be applied twice a day, from the centre to the tip of the nails, using gentle circular motions to allow the treatment to penetrate.

Highly porous, healthy nails contain 18% water, a content that determines the flexibility of the nail. However, if the water content drops below 16%, the nails become dry and brittle. To prevent dehydration, coat your hands with a topical moisturising treatment that contains occlusive materials (lanolin, etc.), humectants (glycerine, urea, amino acids, propylene glycol, etc.) and emollient agents enriched with essential fatty acids (shea butter, coconut oil, etc.) to increase the nail plate's ability to retain water, and do this after each wash. When applying the treatment, ensure you apply it around and directly onto your nails. Before going to bed, moisturise your hands, feet and nails to keep them hydrated during your sleep.

A product recommendation?

For comfortable hands and strong nails on a daily basis, you can opt for our 10-ingredient hand balm. Minimalist in its formulation, it nourishes, soothes, softens, and repairs hands weakened by external aggressions (temperature changes, repetitive washing, frequent use of hand sanitiser...), strengthens fragile nails and hydrates from the first application, thanks to the combined action of the coconut oil (INCI: Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil) and hyaluronic acid (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate).

Its enveloping texture, non-sticky and with a "dry" touch, penetrates quickly. Comprising 99% of ingredients of natural origin, it can be perfectly combined with our hand & nail serum. Indeed, it will trap the active ingredients of the fortifying serum applied on the nails, allowing them to penetrate better.

Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin, also known as vitamin B7, naturally found in many types of foods (cereals, egg yolks, dairy products, nuts, peanuts, salmon, chicken, etc.). Therefore, a true deficiency is quite rare, not to mention that it can also be synthesised by intestinal bacteria. Biotin notably helps to improve the ultrastructure of the nail plate by participating in the biosynthesis of lipid molecules that ensure the bonding between the keratinocytes of the nail plate.

However, as a dietary supplement, biotin is sometimes used to enhance the firmness and hardness of nails. Indeed, some preliminary studies, both through clinical examinations and electron microscopy, suggest that a daily dose of biotin (2.5 mg/day) could help to thicken and strengthen nails over a period of six to nine months. Before starting to take biotin supplements, consult your doctor to see if you can try it. Indeed, these supplements may interact with certain medications.

Note: A recent study has shown that the growth rate of nails increased by 12% and the frequency of broken nails decreased by 42%, after 24 weeks of daily oral supplementation with collagen peptides.

When carrying out household chores, wearing gloves is a way to protect your nails from excessive moisture or direct contact with harsh chemicals (detergents, cleaning fluids, etc.). Choose rubber gloves lined with cotton. Similarly, in cold weather, make sure to wear gloves. Indeed, in winter, the nail plate dehydrates, making it more prone to breakage.

File your nails daily with a cardboard nail file and in one direction only to shorten them, remove roughness, and thus prevent breakage. Indeed, this action will minimise the nail surface where water and chemicals can be absorbed. When you cut your nails, cut in a straight line and round the edges.

Although acrylic or gel manicures provide embellishment and ornamentation to the nails, their application and removal involve the use of inadequately sterilised tools (abrasive files, nail grinders, polishers, etc.) and chemicals (cyanoacrylate glue, acrylics, formaldehyde, acetone, etc.), which can damage the nails in case of repeated application. Indeed, the nail technician must file the surface of the natural nails to make them sufficiently rough and adhesive, which makes them thin and more fragile. The chemical agents contained in the gel filler, used to fill the gaps that appear as your nails grow, can weaken them.

Similarly, to remove acrylic or gel nails, you need to soak your fingers in 100% acetone for 10 to 15 minutes. This chemical is very drying for your nails and can irritate your skin. If necessary, particularly for gel varnishes which often adhere firmly to the nail, the remnants of varnish are filed off. However, this entire process can make your natural nails thin, split and fragile. It is therefore preferable to avoid this ritual. Nevertheless, if you like the look of artificial nails, consider taking a break every three months. This allows your real nails to recover from the exposure to chemicals and the physical trauma they have endured.

Sometimes, brittle nails are a sign of a medical condition (Raynaud's syndrome, hyperthyroidism, anaemia, hypothyroidism, etc.). Consider consulting and informing your doctor about any changes you notice in your nails that you deem abnormal.

• FLOERSHEIM G. L. & al. Treatment of brittle fingernails and onychoschizia with biotin: scanning electron microscopy. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (1990).

• MEYERSON M. & al. Brittle nails: response to daily biotin supplementation. Cutis (1993).

• PLATT D. & al. Age-associated changes in integral cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate concentrations in human scalp hair and fingernail clippings. Aging Clinical and Experimental Research (2001).

• RICH P. & al. Treating cosmetically induced nail problems. Dermatology and Therapy (2007).

• RALPH D. & al. Management of simple brittle nails. Dermatology and Therapy (2012).

• IORIZZO M. Tips to treat the 5 most common nail disorders: brittle nails, onycholysis, paronychia, psoriasis, onychomycosis. Dermatologic Clinics (2015).

• TOSTI A. & al. Cosmetically induced disorders of the nail with update on contemporary nail manicures. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2016).

• OESSER D. & al. Oral supplementation with specific bioactive collagen peptides improves nail growth and reduces symptoms of brittle nails. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017).

• SCHER R. K. & al. Biotin for the treatment of nail disease: what is the evidence? Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2018).

• PIRACCINI B. M. & al. Pathogenesis, clinical signs and treatment recommendations in brittle nails: A review. Dermatologic Therapy (2020).