Quel masque utiliser pour les cheveux gras ?

Which mask should be used for oily hair?

Hair masks are renowned for nourishing dry and brittle hair. But what about oily hair? What type of mask should be used for this hair type? Which ingredients should be prioritised?

Summary
Published June 7, 2022, updated on February 15, 2024, by Sandrine, Scientific Editor — 4 min read

How are greasy hair characterised?

Oily hair is caused by hyperseborrhea (excessive sebum secretion) at the scalp level, with a sebaceous excretion level exceeding 190 mg/cm². The hair becomes weighed down at the root, flat, dull, and lacking volume. It then loses its lightness and shine. This excessive sebum production can lead to itching. However, if scalp hyperseborrhea is not treated, it can eventually lead to hair loss, dandruff, and deterioration of the hair fibre (oily and weakened hair).

Several internal factors can be the root cause of this phenomenon, including genetics, hormonal fluctuations and certain diseases such as Parkinson's disease. The external causes are also numerous: pollution, prolonged exposure to the sun, overheated hair dryers and straighteners, certain medications (antibiotics, diuretics, anticoagulants), lack of hygiene. Oily hair can also result from the use of unsuitable care products. Hence the importance of knowing which mask to use and which composition to favour.

How to choose a mask for oily hair?

It is important to choose a suitable treatment that will not weigh down hair that is already prone to greasiness. As a general rule, a mask for oily hair is applied to both the lengths and roots, directly onto dry hair, before shampooing. The following ingredients should be prioritised.

  • Absorbent agents

    Some powders are capable of absorbing impurities and oils while respecting the hydrolipidic film of the scalp without irritating the sebaceous glands. These include mineral powders such as thegreen clay (I.N.C.I.: Montmorillonite) or white (I.N.C.I.: Kaolin / Montmorillonite) whose "lamellar" sheet-like structures allow for the absorption of lipids. Some masks can also be enriched with Moroccan rhassoul (or ghassoul). Known as the "washing earth", this volcanic clay acts like an absorbent filter that will purify the hair.

  • Sebum-regulating agents

    They significantly reduce the production of sebum. Certain compounds are known to limit the growth of microorganisms that cause numerous imbalances, such as thenettle extract (I.N.C.I.: Urtica Dioica Leaf Extract/Powder) or the zinc PCA.

  • Some vegetable oils (jojoba oil and hazelnut)

    These plant-based oils help tobalance sebum production in the scalp and combat oily dandruff. We recommend applying a few drops of jojoba or hazelnut oil 2 to 3 times a week to the roots of the hair and massaging the scalp for a rebalancing effect. Then, leave the plant oil on for 15 minutes before washing your hair.

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