When and how often should glycolic acid be used?

When and how often should glycolic acid be used?

This fruit acid is used to care for the skin of the face and body, as well as the scalp. Let's focus on its application.

Generalities about glycolic acid.

the smallest molecule of all the A.H.A.s . Due to this property, it can penetrate the various layers of the epidermis more easily and deeply, depending on its concentration, making it an effective tool for treating a variety of skin issues ranging from acne to hyperpigmentation through to ageing. At low concentrations (<5%), it has moisturising properties, while at high concentrations (>20%) it is a powerful exfoliant.

Glycolic acid offers numerous benefits: it is primarily known for its outstanding keratolytic virtues . This ingredient has the ability to assist in shedding accumulated dead skin on the surface and stimulating the regeneration of a new stratum corneum. As a result, glycolic acid significantly improves skin texture, by hydrating the skin, combating imperfections (enlarged pores, blackheads, spots, excess sebum), reducing the appearance of wrinkles, acne scars and pigmentation spots (dark spots, age spots, melasma) and adding radiance and vitality to the skin. In the field of cosmetology, it is available in many forms such as creams, serums, shower gels, cleansers, masks, shampoos or lotions.

When should one resort to a glycolic acid treatment?

Glycolic acid can be utilised by almost all skin types, from young to mature skin, including dry, normal, and combination to oily skin, without causing too much trouble. Indeed, if you have a dull complexion or if your facial skin is prone to brown spots, using a glycolic acid-based treatment can be beneficial for you. If you have oily skin, regulate the hyperseborrhea by applying a hydroxyacetic acid solution. If you wish to fade the first wrinkles appearing on your skin, do not hesitate to resort to this potent ingredient.

It's important to note that the amount of glycolic acid varies depending on the skincare application. For instance, a product with a concentration of 4% or less of glycolic acid primarily provides a moisturising effect. This active ingredient percentage can be found in creams, but also in lotions or cleansing waters. However, to enhance skin radiance, tighten pores, regulate sebum secretion or reduce the presence of blackheads, you might opt for a glycolic acid solution with a concentration between 8 and 10%. For the treatment of ageing-related concerns (wrinkles, loss of firmness, age spots), acne or sun spots, a product with a glycolic acid dose exceeding 20% is recommended, but requires the intervention of a medical professional.

When should you apply a glycolic acid treatment?

Even though glycolic acid presents a much gentler alternative to grainy scrubs and most products available for home use are safe and effective for the majority of skin types, it remains an exfoliant and therefore requires some precautions. Thus, like any exfoliating product and to avoid it being counterproductive, it is preferable to use it during the evening daily beauty routine to limit any risk of photosensitivity, especially since cell renewal is significant during the night. Indeed, glycolic acid increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun and, in particular, the possibility of sunburn. We also recommend that you consistently apply a SPF cream every morning and wear photoprotective clothing (hat, etc...) to protect your skin from UV radiation, but also to limit or even avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, as long as you are using a product containing glycolic acid and up to a week after its last application. In the same vein, prefer to undertake the application of glycolic acid-based products in autumn/winter, rather than in the summer period. Of course, it is possible to start or continue applying glycolic acid solutions during sunny periods (spring and summer), provided of course that it is combined with a minimum SPF30 sun protection and avoiding the sun as much as possible.

How often should we use glycolic acid?

The frequency of use depends on your skin type, skin tolerance level, as well as your needs and expectations. We advise you to start small and increase if your skin tolerates it well. It is normal to temporarily feel a slight warmth, some tingling or a mild dryness of the skin during the initial days. You can, for instance, start by applying once every three nights and then gradually increase. If your skin is naturally dry or if you are applying a glycolic acid treatment for the first time, start with a treatment with a low concentration of glycolic acid so that your skin can adjust. This also depends on the active concentration in the products. Our cosmetics, the exfoliating toner lotion with 8% glycolic acid and the exfoliating face serum with 10% glycolic acid, can be used daily. However, stronger chemical peels (between 10 and 20%) should be applied 1 to 2 times per week and should not exceed the indicated application time. Before spreading a product on your face, make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Sources

  • KORNHAUSERA. & al. Topical application of glycolic acid intensifies photodamage caused by ultraviolet light. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine (2003).

  • HEARING V. J. & co. The impacts of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced redness, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science (2009).

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