What You Should Know About Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglutamic acid is a biopolymer derived from the amino acid glutamic acid. This compound was first isolated from the organism of the sea jellyfish. It allows it to store water in its delicate tissues, preventing dehydration, which is accelerated by its presence in the salt water of the ocean. It is also present in Nattô. This traditional Japanese food with its sticky, doughy consistency is obtained by fermenting soybeans. Polyglutamic acid was once used to accelerate the wound healing process, and is now used in skin care for its moisturizing properties. It is listed under the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) designation "Polyglutamic Acid" and is defined as a skincare ingredient.

Polyglutamic acid combats dehydration of the skin at various levels:

• It forms a film on the surface of the skin.

Polyglutamic acid creates a microscopic film on the surface of epidermal tissue called a microgel. This swells and traps water, promoting water retention. Polyglutamic acid can bind up to 5,000 times its weight in water. In comparison, hyaluronic acid can bind 1,000 times its weight in water.

• It stimulates the production of molecules that form the natural moisturizing factor (NMF)

As a reminder, water is stored in the stratum corneum by hygroscopic substances formed during epidermal differentiation. Thus, several studies have demonstrated the ability of polyglutamic acid to boost the production of some of these molecules, including pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), lactic acid and urocanic acid.

• PGA reduces the production of hyaluronidase

This biomolecule is an enzyme responsible for reducing the amount of hyaluronic acid present in epidermal tissue. By reducing its synthesis, polyglutamic acid prevents the loss of moisture from the skin and thus the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines.

In addition, polyglutamic acid has interesting properties to combat the appearance of signs of aging. For example, one study demonstrated that it can increase skin elasticity more significantly than collagen and hyaluronic acid when applied topically.