How to use polyglutamic acid?

Thepolyglutamic acid (PGA) is a biopolymer first isolated from the organism of the marine jellyfish. It allows it to store water in its delicate tissue, thus preventing accelerated dehydration due to its presence in the ocean's salty water. Today, PGA is extracted from a traditional Japanese food, the nattô, composed of fermented soybean seeds. It can also be biosynthesised from L-glutamic acid using the Gram-positive bacterium Bacillus subtilis.

From a chemical perspective, polyglutamic acid is apolymer derived from the amino acid glutamic. Its empirical formula is written as (C5H7NO3)n.In cosmetics, it is recognised for its hydrating action. It is capable of forming a protective film on the skin's surface that limits water evaporation. This is referred to as amicrogel; this structure swells and traps water, thus promoting its retention.Polyglutamic acid can retain up to 5,000 times its weight in water.

In order to hydrate the skin and thereby prevent the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, various galenic forms contain polyglutamic acid and are now distributed in the cosmetic market. This active ingredient can thus be found in creams, lotions, and aqueous serums.

For effectiveness on the skin, polyglutamic acid must be concentrated at a minimum of 0.3% in a cosmetic formula. Generally, serums are the formulations that have a higher concentration of active ingredients, and therefore in PGA. However, it is advisable not to exceed 3% of PGA in a skin product. An overdose of polyglutamic acid can weaken the epidermal tissues and promote the appearance of redness. Therefore, its pure use is not recommended. Being an acid, a patch test on the inside of the elbow is recommended before any use. In case of intolerance, avoid using care products containing polyglutamic acid.

• Areas of application :

  A polyglutamic acid treatment can be applied to the entire face avoiding the mouth, lips or eyes. It can also be used locally, solely on areas affected by intense dryness as a spot treatment.

• Application Frequencies :

  Polyglutamic acid is not a photosensitising species: it does not increase skin sensitivity to the sun's UV rays. Thus, you can apply a treatment containing this active ingredient morning and evening. However, do ensure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sun protection.

• Application methods according to the galenic forms used :

  Generally, serums are more concentrated in active ingredients than creams.To apply a serum, pour 3 to 7 drops into the palm of your hands. Using your fingertips, apply the treatment evenly across your face and neck. Massage gently. When it comes to applying a polyglutamic acid cream, take a small amount of the product and spread it over the entire face. Allow it to penetrate by massaging gently. If you are using a body cream, apply a sufficient amount to areas prone to dryness, such as the hands, feet or even the lower legs due to potential hair removal.