Polyglutamic acid is derived from a traditional Japanese food made from fermented soybeans called Nattô and is used as a moisturizer in face and body care. Check out our tips on how to incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine. More in this article.
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How To Use Polyglutamic Acid?
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Polyglutamic Acid at a Glance
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a biopolymer isolated for the first time from the organism of the sea jellyfish. It allows it to store water in its delicate tissues, preventing the dehydration accelerated by its presence in the salt water of the ocean. Today, PGA is derived from traditional Japanese food called Nattô, which is fermented soybeans. It can also be biosynthesized from L-glutamic acid using the bacterium Bacillus subtilis.
Chemically, polyglutamic acid is a polymer derived from the amino acid glutamic acid. Its molecular formula is (C5H7NO3)n. In cosmetics, it is known for its moisturizing effect. It is able to form a protective film on the surface of the skin, limiting the evaporation of water. This is called a microgel; this structure swells and traps water, promoting water retention. Polyglutamic acid can bind up to 5,000 times its weight in water.
The Different Care Products Containing Polyglutamic Acid
To moisturize the skin and thus prevent the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, various galenic dosage forms contain polyglutamic acid and are now sold on the cosmetics market. Thus, this active ingredient may be contained in creams, lotions and aqueous serums.
To be effective on the skin, polyglutamic acid must be concentrated to at least 0.3% in a cosmetic formula. Serums are usually the galenics with the highest concentration of active ingredients and therefore also of PGA. However, no more than 3% PGA should be present in a skin care product. An overdose of polyglutamic acid can weaken the epidermal tissue and promote the appearance of redness. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it alone. Since it is an acid, an elbow test should be performed before each application. In case of intolerance, you should avoid using skin care products containing polyglutamic acid.
How Can You Incorporate Polyglutamic Acid Into Your Daily Routine?
Areas of application:
A skincare product containing polyglutamic acid can be applied to the entire face, avoiding the mouth, lips, and eyes. It can also be applied locally, only on the areas affected by severe dryness as a spot treatment.
Frequency of use:
Polyglutamic acid is not a photosensitizing ingredient: it does not increase skin sensitivity due to the UV rays of the sun. Therefore, you can apply a care product containing this active ingredient in the morning and in the evening. Nevertheless, make sure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
The types of application depending on the galenics used:
Serums usually contain a higher concentration of active ingredients than creams. To apply a serum, place 3 to 7 drops in the palms of your hands. Apply it with your fingertips and spread it evenly over your face and neck. Massage it in gently. If you are applying a cream with polyglutamic acid, take a hazelnut-sized amount of the product and spread it all over your face. Gently massage the cream into the skin. If you are using a body cream, apply a sufficient amount to the areas prone to dryness, such as hands, feet, or even legs.
The Plumping Serum With 3% Polyglutamic Acid and Red Algae Extract
The red algae extract is combined with polyglutamic acid in the plumping serum to moisturize the skin on two levels. Red Algae Extract is able to work deep within the skin to boost the production of Hyaluronic Acid, while Polyglutamic Acid forms a protective film on the skin's surface to combat moisture loss. This product is applied morning and evening to cleansed and dry skin. It is especially recommended for dry skin and/or to prevent dryness lines and first wrinkles.
Source
GOLDMAN D. M. & al. Polyglutamic acid: a novel peptide for skin care. Cosmetics Toiletries Magazine (2007).
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