What you need to know about safflower oil.

Also known as dyer's safflower or dyer's saffron, safflower is a herbaceous dye and oil plant native to Turkey and Iran. Its name comes from the Greek "kurthum", meaning to dye. According to the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI), an American national institute for molecular biological information, there are two forms of safflower: Carthamus tinctorius var. tinctorius, with spines, and Carthamus tinctorius var. inermis, without spines.

The safflower, specifically the thorny variety, has long been utilised in the textile industry for dyeing purposes. Today, the thornless form is preferred and is primarily cultivated for the oil contained in its seeds. With its orange hue and light texture, the safflower oil is appreciated in various fields . It can be used in cooking to add flavour to dishes, in painting where it brings brightness and shine to canvases, and in cosmetics due to its numerous benefits for the skin and hair.

If the safflower oil is so highly valued in cosmetics, it's because of its extremely rich biochemical composition.

Several studies on the safflower oil have shown that this natural ingredient possesses several interesting properties for the skin.

• Safflower oil has moisturising and nourishing effects.

  Compounds found in the hydrolipidic film of the epidermis, the oleic, stearic and palmitic acids of safflower oil strengthen this protective veil and preserve the skin from cold, dehydration and other external aggressions. Furthermore, the fatty acids of safflower oil have the ability to influence the production of skin lipids such as ceramides. These will then be transferred to the keratinocytes and transported to be metabolised and used in the construction of a functional epidermal barrier for a more supple and less dry skin.

• Safflower oil possesses antioxidant properties.

  Safflower oil can also counteract the effects of oxidative stress and protect cellular organelles and DNA from free radical attack. This protection helps to prevent skin ageing and the pigmentation disorders that oxidative stress can cause. Due to its content of phytosterols and vitamin E, safflower oil has genuine photoprotective potential and is an excellent ally for slowing the onset of wrinkles.

• Safflower oil to alleviate skin sagging?

  In addition to this preventive component, in vitro studies suggest that safflower oil could also act directly on established wrinkles. Indeed, it appears that this ingredient may inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase, endogenous enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin. However, caution should be exercised regarding the effects of safflower oil on wrinkles, as these have not been demonstrated in clinical trials.

• Safflower oil is believed to have a brightening effect.

  Another sign of skin ageing, brown spots gradually appear as a result of repeated exposure to the sun's UV rays. Several recognised active ingredients can help to reduce them, including alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid, and niacinamide. It is possible that safflower oil also has anti-spot properties. A study has shown its inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanogenesis, of the bacterium Streptomyces bikiniensis. Thus, safflower oil could potentially have lightening properties, however, this still needs to be demonstrated in clinical trials.

• Safflower oil accelerates the healing process.

  The application of safflower oil can also aid in ensuring efficient and rapid skin regeneration. Indeed, in addition to its essential moisturising properties for healing, safflower oil promotes theepithelialisation of tissues and the angiogenesis process, that is, the formation of new blood vessels. In the case of a minor wound or persistent post-inflammatory mark, this vegetable oil proves to be an ally.

• Safflower oil has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

  Finally, it has been demonstrated that safflower oil can provide relief for the skin in cases of itching or irritation. The phytosterols contained in this vegetable oil act to downregulate NF-κB and AP-1 proteins, which are pro-inflammatory transcription factors. Furthermore, safflower oil can also be used in cases of erythema or erythrosis to help reduce redness.

The safflower oil can also be used to protect and nourish hair fibres. Whether used as a hair oil treatment or incorporated into a hair care product, it leaves the hair shiny and soft while preventing the appearance of split ends. A great ally for fine hair, safflower oil coats the hair fibres and strengthens the hydrolipidic film. It also contributes to the restoration and cohesion of the cuticle scales, the outer part of the hair fibres. This cohesion is essential to ensure the hair's impermeability and overall health.

Furthermore, safflower oil could also potentially influence hair growth. However, this is a hypothesis that requires further investigation to be confirmed. It appears that the linoleic acid and β-sitosterol in safflower oil could activate the Shh/Gli signalling pathway. By doing so, these active ingredients could accelerate the transition between the telogen phase of the hair cycle, which is when hair falls out, and the anagen phase, also known as the growth phase.

The safflower oil is a safe vegetable oil that can be used pure, including by those with sensitive skin. Easily absorbed by the epidermis, its light texture is suitable for all skin types, including oily or acne-prone skin. However, ensure that the safflower oil you wish to use is not oxidised as this can damage its compounds, alter its properties, or even make it comedogenic. An oxidised vegetable oil can be recognised by its change in texture, colour and smell. To avoid this phenomenon, store your safflower oil in a cool place and out of the light.

Even though safflower oil is a gentle vegetable oil, it is advisable to conduct a tolerance test before using it.

At Typology, we have decided to incorporate safflower oil into our anti-redness cream due to its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Specifically designed for skin prone to rosacea and couperose, this treatment reduces feelings of heat and softens the skin day after day. Formulated with 97% natural origin ingredients, our cream promotes hydration and comfort for skin prone to redness upon application.

In addition to safflower oil, the anti-redness cream contains azelaic acid, known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, niacinamide, an active ingredient that strengthens the skin's barrier and contributes to an even complexion, and green algae extract, specifically targeting vascular imperfections.

Tip : To instantly diminish redness, you can complement the action of the cream with the green anti-redness corrector enriched with niacinamide and green algae extract.

You can also find safflower oil in our shimmering dry oil. Formulated with stabilised vitamin C and several antioxidant plant oils, it prevents photoaging of the skin while providing a luminous and satin finish. It can be used both on the skin and on the hair, as hair fibres are also sensitive to oxidative stress.

• HWANG J. K. & al. Inhibitory Effects of Active Compounds Extracted from Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) Seeds on Melanogenesis. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin (2004).

• CHAIYASUT C. & others. Inhibition of 5α-reductase and promotion of hair growth by certain Thai plants traditionally used for hair care. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2012).

• MERAH O. & al. Phenol Content and Antioxidant and Anti-ageing Activity of Safflower Seed Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius L.). Cosmetics (2019).

• BITRI L. & al. Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Potentials of Seed Oil from Carthamus tinctorius L. in the Treatment of Skin Injuries. Cellular and Molecular Mechanisms of Oxidative Stress in Wound Healing (2020).

• ERGONUL P. G. & OZBEK Z. A. Cold pressed safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed oil. Cold Pressed Oils (2020).