What are the benefits of safflower oil for the skin?

When applied topically, safflower oil is primarily used for its nourishing and moisturising properties. Rich in linoleic acid, it strengthens the skin's barrier and promotes the cohesion of cells in the stratum corneum. Better organised, these cells ensure improved skin impermeability and reduce water loss. Furthermore, safflower oil contains phytosterols, compounds with the ability to capture and retain moisture. The phytosterols support the hydrolipidic film present on the surface of the epidermis and guarantee skin hydration.

Safflower oil can be used on both the face and body and is particularly favoured by those with dry skin or skin prone to tightness. Non-comedogenic when of good quality, safflower oil can also replace a night cream, especially in winter when the skin is exposed to harsh temperatures and needs maximum comfort and hydration.

Safflower oil is also credited with a tightening effect, highly sought after in the formulation of skincare products for mature skin. In addition to its ability to prevent fine dehydration lines due to its moisturising properties, safflower oil could also directly act on the causes of skin ageing. Studies have shown that this vegetable oil has an inhibitory effect on collagenase and elastase, enzymes respectively responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres. As a reminder, these proteins of the extracellular matrix play a significant role in maintaining the firmness and flexibility of the skin, and their gradual decrease from our twenties greatly contributes to skin ageing.

However, caution is advised regarding this property: at present, only studies in vitro have demonstrated it. No study has yet established that the topical application of safflower oil can prevent or mitigate the effects of time on the skin.

Safflower oil possesses proven anti-inflammatory properties. These are once again derived from the phytosterols present in its composition. Phytosterols can inhibit the activity of NF-κB and AP-1 proteins, which are pro-inflammatory transcription factors. Indeed, NF-κB codes for various inflammation proteins such as certain pro-inflammatory chemokines. AP-1 has similar effects and notably codes for cytokines, which are also pro-inflammatory. Thanks to these mechanisms, safflower oil has a soothing effect on the skin and helps to reduce itching and sensations of discomfort.

This botanical extract can also be used to counteract unwanted redness, in the case of a mild rosacea for instance. A study specifically looked at the effects of a moisturising cream containing 1% vitamin K to treat 50 patients suffering from rosacea. After applying this cream twice a day for eight weeks, researchers measured a significant reduction in erythema. Vitamin K is found in safflower oil, which may suggest its effect in cases of rosacea and on redness.

Safflower oil also possesses healing properties that are beneficial in combating acne scars or minor cuts. In addition to providing the skin with good hydration, a key factor in ensuring its healing, it acts directly on the fibroblasts and theepithelialisation of tissues. Safflower oil not only promotes the synthesis of collagen by the fibroblasts but also stimulates angiogenesis, that is, the formation of new blood vessels.

Furthermore, the modulation of the inflammatory response induced by linoleic acid present in safflower oil also facilitates the healing process. This compound also plays a role in the synthesis of several mediators such as thromboxanes and leukotrienes, which are highly active in dermo-epidermal synthesis and angiogenesis.

In addition to protecting the skin by keeping it hydrated, safflower oil has a antioxidant activity that enables it to counteract the damage caused by free radicals. Generated following prolonged exposure to UV rays, pollution or tobacco, these reactive molecules contribute to the alteration of protein structures, which results in skin damage (wrinkles, skin sagging, hyperpigmentation...). Once again, it is the phytosterols that are responsible for the antioxidant properties of safflower oil, supported by vitamin E, also present in this oil.

In addition to stabilising free radicals through electron donation, phytosterols stimulate the activity ofendogenous antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx). Notably, SOD catalyses the dismutation of superoxide anions O2.- into oxygen O2 and hydrogen peroxide H2O2. GPx, on the other hand, facilitates the transformation of organic hydroperoxides before they can damage cells. These various effects enable safflower oil to help prevent skin ageing.

Extended exposure to the sun, hormonal fluctuations, or prolonged skin inflammation are factors that can disrupt melanogenesis and trigger the onset of pigmented spots. Although harmless, this hyperpigmentation impacts the uniformity of the skin tone and can be a source of discomfort. Several studies have been conducted to find active ingredients capable of reducing these marks. Some have specifically focused on safflower oil and have arrived at interesting conclusions.

It has thus been demonstrated that safflower oil has a inhibitory effect on the tyrosinase of the bacterium Streptomyces bikiniensis. This inhibition could even be comparable to that induced by arbutin, a recognised anti-spot active ingredient. Tyrosinase is an enzyme playing a major role in melanogenesis to allow the production of melanin. These results are encouraging regarding the ability of safflower oil to prevent and correct brown spots. However, for the time being, it is necessary to remain cautious, as this study was conducted in vitro on bacteria. Trials with individuals showing signs of hyperpigmentation would be necessary to conclude on the depigmenting effect of safflower oil.

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• MERAH O. & al. Phenol Content and Antioxidant and Antiaging Activity of Safflower Seed Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius L.). Cosmetics (2019).

• BITRI L. & al. Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Capabilities of Seed Oil from Carthamus tinctorius L. in the Treatment of Skin Wounds. Cellular and Molecular Mechanisms of Oxidative Stress in Wound Recovery (2020).

• ERGONUL P. G. & OZBEK Z. A. Cold pressed safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed oil. Cold Pressed Oils (2020).

• GALAWISH AHMED A. The efficacy of topical 1% vitamin K cream in treating steroid-induced rosacea. Journal of Pharmacy and Technology (2020).