What you need to know about Damask Rose essential oil.

The rose has been admired since antiquity, where it was regarded as the queen of flowers. It is mentioned in sacred texts, and its fragrance was reserved for kings, temples, and gods. At present, over 200 species of roses and more than 18,000 cultivars of the plant have been identified.

The Damask rose is said to be originally from Persia. It comes from the crossbreeding of three species of roses: Rosa Gallica, Rosa Phoenicia or Rosa Moschata and Rosa fedtschenkoana. The cultivation of wild roses dates back to 5000 BC in China. However, the Damask rose arrived in France through the Crusades during the Middle Ages upon the return of French knights from Damascus.

At Typology, the Damask rose petals used to extract the essential oil employed in our treatments come from either Bulgaria, Iran, Morocco, or Turkey.

Its extraction process, known as complete steam distillation, has a low yield: 5 tonnes of petals only produce 1 kg of essential oil. Moreover, to best bring out its aromatic essence, the petals of Damask roses must undergo a double distillation process:

• The initial distillation is carried out using petals. These are placed in a still and then subjected to steam, which is subsequently cooled in a condenser and collected in liquid form. Floating on the surface is the essential oil, less dense than the water used for extraction, which is none other than theDamask rose hydrosol.

• The second distillation is none other than the redistillation of the previously obtained Damask rose hydrosol .

From an organoleptic perspective, theDamask rose essence presents itself as a liquid that can solidify below 20°C, with a light yellow colour and the characteristic floral scent of rose.

In cosmetic formulations, this natural ingredient is known by the I.N.C.I. name of "Rosa Damascena Flower Oil".

Incorporated into a skincare product, this essential oil is recognised for its revitalising, regenerating and healing properties. It is the most renowned essential oil for combating the signs of ageing.Indeed, the monoterpenic alcohols it contains in abundance (citronellol, nerol and geraniol) tighten the tissues, thus limiting the sagging of the skin that appears over the years. Moreover, it is antioxidant and protects the skin from external aggressions (sun, pollution, smoking...) that accelerate skin ageing. Researchers have also demonstrated its ability to stimulate the expression of the collagen-I gene. As a reminder, collagen is a fibrous protein present in the dermis that provides flexibility and firmness to the skin. However, over the years, its production by the body tends to decrease, which leads to skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles.

Furthermore,monoterpenic esters such as geranyl acetate found in this essential oil have a beneficial effect on acute and chronic skin inflammations.

Firstly, like the majority of essential oils, it is contraindicated during the first three months of pregnancy. After this period, it is advisable to seek a doctor's opinion before using it. It is also not recommended for children under 3 years of age.

Next, this essential oil containsseveral highly concentrated allergenic biochemical componentssuch as citronellol, geraniol, and nerol. Thesenatural compounds can pose a risk of allergy in certain sensitive individuals. Therefore, it is always advisable to perform askin tolerance testin the crook of the elbow 48 hours before using a skincare product withDamask rose essential oil.

Finally, it should never be applied undiluted to the skin. The pure Damask rose essential oil is so concentrated in active species that it should be diluted in a suitable vegetable oil to a maximum of 5%.

Take note! Susceptible to oxidation, this essential oil should be stored in its amber bottle and sealed airtight before being placed away from light and heat.

Even though it is suitable for all skin types, it is still recommended for mature, fragile, irritated or tired skin. It can be adopted as part of a daily routine to compensate for a lack of firmness, slow down skin ageing or reduce redness. It can thus be found in some lotions, tonics, serums and creams.

Ourfirming tonercontains Damask rose essential oil combined with 0.1% of retinol, the ultimate skin-tightening active ingredient. This lotion, with a pH level as acidic as the skin, rebalances the skin's pH after each cleansing. It also helps to remove the lime scale residues present in the water during cleansing. Rich in firming active ingredients, it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and fights against skin sagging.

To apply it, soak a cotton pad with the firming lotion and then sweep it over your entire face, which should be previously cleansed, avoiding the eye contour, the evening only.

Note :We advise against its use for sensitive and reactive skin types, as well as for pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.

• DHANABAL S. P. & al. Design and development of polyherbal based cream formulation with anti-skin ageing benefits. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2017).

• FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - Les huiles essentielles - Fondements et aides à la prescription (2017).

• AHMED Y. & al. Rosa damascene Mill. (Rose): A versatile herb in cosmetology. Tang Humanitas Medecine (2019).