What is the chemical composition of Damask rose hydrosol?

Known by its I.N.C.I. name "Rosa Damascena Flower Water", Damask rose hydrosol is derived from the steam distillation of fresh flower petals. Distillation results in two distinct fractions: the essential oil and the hydrosol.

To achieve this, the plant is heated in a still filled with water for several hours. The steam is then cooled in a condenser and collected in liquid form. Floating on the surface is theDamask rose essential oil, which is less dense than the water used for extraction, which is none other than theDamask rose hydrosol. Derived from the same plant, the two fractions have similar properties, but the hydrosol is less concentrated in active species because the aromatic essences are present in smaller quantities. Therefore, it can be used without contraindications by children and pregnant women, unlike the essential oil.

The Damask rose hydrosol appears as a clear, colourless liquid with a floral, subtle scent and sweet notes.

The Damask rose hydrosol primarily contains the following compounds:

• Citronellol, Nerol, and Geraniol:

  These three monoterpenic alcohols are recognised for providing a pleasant rose scent to skincare products. They also help to mask the smell of another compound present in the formula.

• Linalool:

  This monoterpene alcohol with the empirical formula C10H18O imparts to theDamask rose hydrosol its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Indeed, this substance limits the production of pro-inflammatory molecules on skin cells, thereby reducing the dilation of blood vessels.

This hydrolat also contains 2-phenylethanol, a anti-microbial compound that limits its degradation over time.

This hydrosol is theally of mature skin due to its regenerative action. It provides several benefits when applied topically:

• Antioxidant, it significantly limits the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). As a reminder, these compounds tend to degrade the healthy cells of the skin and accelerate its ageing.

• Anti-inflammatory, this hydrosol works by significantly reducing the production of pro-inflammatory molecules (IL-6, IL-8).

• It strengthens intercellular cohesion which allows the skin to better resist external aggressions such as the sun, pollution etc...

Ourfirming lotion with 0.1% retinol and Damask rose extract has an acidic pH similar to the skin. It rebalances the skin's pH after each cleansing. It also helps to remove the lime residues present in the water during cleansing. Rich in firming active ingredients, it helps to limit the premature ageing of cells and to delay the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines due to its regenerating and antioxidant properties. Moreover, its calming action helps to reduce the irritating effect of retinol. This lotion is suitable for all skin types, but it is particularly suitable for mature skin.

Caution! Due to the presence of retinol, we advise against its use for individuals with sensitive and reactive skin, as well as pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.

• FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - TOME 2 Les hydrolats (2018).