What is "Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract/Seed Oil" and what is its utility?

The red raspberry or the bramble of Mount Ida is a shrub from the Rosaceae family, cultivated for its fruits, the raspberries.

The species name of the raspberry plant, "Idaeus", originates from its discovery on Mount Ida near Troy in northern Turkey, a location steeped in Greek mythology. According to legend, the fruit derives its red colour from the blood of Ida, the daughter of the King of Crete and nurse to Zeus. In an attempt to soothe Zeus, she supposedly picked raspberries, which were originally white in colour. However, she scratched her breast in the process, and her bleeding is said to have stained the fruits red.

Today, the raspberry plant primarily grows in Europe and Asia, in temperate and cold regions (from Turkey to Siberia, via China and Japan).

Titled "Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil" according to the I.N.C.I. nomenclature, raspberry vegetable oil is derived from a first cold pressing of the seeds of the fruit. It is rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids (linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid), monounsaturated essential fatty acids (oleic acid),saturated essential fatty acids (palmitic acid), vitamin E, carotenoids (beta-carotene, lutein, and cryptoxanthin) and gallic acid.

Raspberry vegetable oil presents itself as an oily liquid of an orange-yellow colour with a slightly fruity scent. Its texture is dry and it is low in comedogenicity, meaning it does not clog pores and is suitable for both dry and combination skin types.

Highly sensitive to oxidation, it is best preserved in a cool place, shielded from heat and light in an amber bottle. There are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of this vegetable oil. It can be used by pregnant women and young children.

This cosmetic ingredient is well tolerated by all skin types and offers numerous benefits:

• Prevent skin photoaging through its antioxidant power.

  Rich in antioxidant species such as vitamin E, carotenoids, and gallic acid, raspberry oil is an excellent ally in protecting the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, these arereactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are faced with astress, they produce them excessivelyexcessive. The sources of stress are numerous, the main ones being exposure to UVA, pollution, smoking, a diet too rich in fats and/or sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules due to theirsingle electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form apair of electrons, and thus causedamage to cells, DNA, and the body's proteins. This accelerates ageing and wrinkles appear on the skin's surface. Raspberry vegetable oil thus works to prevent the appearance of signs of ageing due to oxidative stress.

• Alleviate skin redness and irritation.

  The essential omega-3 fatty acids it contains endow it with anti-inflammatory activity. Thus, it soothes irritated skin, redness, and itching. It is particularly effective on atopic skin.

• Nourish and hydrate the skin.

  Rich in omega-6, it also providesnutritionandelasticityto the skin, andprevents dehydrationbystrengthening the barrier functionof the epidermis. The hydrolipidic film improves the resistance of the horny layer against external aggressions and limits insensible water loss. Raspberry vegetable oil is thus qualified asrelipidating, it is recommended for taking care of dry and dehydrated skin.

• Preparing the skin for sun exposure.

  The vegetable oil derived from raspberries owes its photoprotective power to its content of antioxidant species and carotenoids. However, caution is required, as when used alone, the sun protection provided by raspberry vegetable oil is minimal and insufficient; it is essential to combine it with a broad-spectrum sunscreen before any exposure.

This ingredient is recommended for all skin types, but it is particularly suitable for sensitive, damaged, mature and atopic-prone skin. This vegetable oil can be found in serums and creams to prevent signs of ageing, soothing treatments for sensitive skin (face, hands, lips...), firming oils for the neck and face, and even in sun preparation and after-sun repair treatments.

Typology has developed the tinted lip balm based on raspberry vegetable oil. It also contains hyaluronic acid and provides comfort, nourishment and hydration to the lips. It is available in five different shades to suit all skin tones.

• GIRARD B. & al. Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil. Food Chemistry (2000).

• VISKELISREDP. & al. Raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) Seed Oil: A Review. Plants (Basels) (2021).