The Ribes Nigrum Fruit Extract is the I.N.C.I. name used to refer to theblackcurrant plant extract. This fruit acid is an enzymatic exfoliant rich in vitamin C, anthocyanosides, and polyphenols. It removes dead cells from the skin's surface for an immediate radiance boost and also provides an antioxidant action that protects the skin from photoaging.
What is "Ribes Nigrum Fruit Extract" and what is its utility?
Summary
Published on February 5, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
The blackcurrant bush in a few lines.
The blackcurrant bush (Ribes Nigrum) is a deciduous shrub belonging to the Grossulariaceae family. Also known as blackcurrant, this shrub is native to the temperate regions of Europe, Western and Central Asia, and the Himalayas. It is cultivated for its sour-sweet fruits. The leaves are harvested in early summer, and the mature berries are picked at the end of the summer. In France, and more specifically in Burgundy, blackcurrants have been cultivated since the 16th century.
Today, blackcurrant is a fruit widely used in cooking. In skin and hair care, it can be incorporated into formulas in the form of vegetable oil (Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil) and/or aromatic extract (Ribes Nigrum Fruit Extract).
How is the plant extract of blackcurrant obtained? What are its benefits?
The blackcurrant extract is obtained from the maceration of the fruits in a circulating mixture of bioglycerin-water. Organoleptically, this plant extract is a reddish to brown liquid with a fruity smell. It is soluble in water and alcohol but insoluble in any lipophilic environment. The blackcurrant extract is sought after for the diversity of active ingredients it contains, namely:
The polyphenols and the vitamin C
Renowned for their antioxidant power, these compounds slow down skin ageing. They act at the level of the skin's internal structure. They notably help to counteract the effects of oxidation reactions, which are responsible for the deterioration of the body's constituents such as collagen and elastin. As a reminder, these fibrous proteins present in the dermis are responsible for the skin's tone and elasticity. Thus, blackcurrant extract limits the appearance or accentuation of wrinkles and skin sagging. Moreover, it also exerts this antioxidant action in hair application. It thus protects the hair from external aggressions (pollution, sun, cigarette...) which generate an overproduction of free radicals leading to the deterioration of hair fibres, the appearance of white hair or even hair loss.
The fruit acids or AHA
These are exfoliating molecules that aid in cell renewal. The plant extract of blackcurrant thus removes dead cells on the skin surface for an immediate radiance boost. It reveals smoother skin and a refined skin texture.
The amino acids
These elements form part of the NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor), which is a collection of substances that retain water and ensure good hydration for the skin. Therefore, the plant extract of blackcurrant also has moisturising properties that limit the appearance of dehydration fine lines.
The anthocyanosides (natural pigments)
Several studies have demonstrated the anti-inflammatory properties of these compounds through the regulation of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The plant extract of blackcurrant thus helps to soothe skin tightness, itching, and redness.
In which Typology skincare product can one find blackcurrant plant extract?
Typology has developed apeeling maskcertified organic with red fruit acids. This treatment combines several exfoliating active ingredients such as raspberry, blackberry and blackcurrant acids, as well as cranberry powder and PHA. By unclogging the pores, it promotes cell renewal and brightens the complexion.
Source:
Andrea Magnavacca & al., Ribes nigrum Leaf Extract Preferentially Inhibits IFN-γ-Mediated Inflammation in HaCaT Keratinocytes, Molecules, (2021).
