What is pequi oil composed of?

The piqui oil is a vegetable oil primarily composed of fatty acids, which are carboxylic acids with a long carbon chain. When this chain is solely made up of single bonds, the fatty acid is referred to as "saturated". If the chain carries a double bond, it is termed a "monounsaturated" fatty acid. Lastly, if there are multiple double bonds within the chemical structure, it is a "polyunsaturated" fatty acid. Piqui oil contains various types of fatty acids.

• Oleic acid (60 to 70%), a monounsaturated fatty acid.

  Oleic acid, an omega-9, is the primary fatty acid found in piqui oil. A natural component of sebum, oleic acid is primarily known for its moisturising and film-forming actions. Indeed, while an excess production of sebum can be bothersome, it's important to remember that this oily substance is synthesised by the sebaceous glands to protect the skin from external aggressions and limit transepidermal water loss. In addition to its moisturising properties, oleic acid helps combat irritation. In fact, studies have shown that this fatty acid modulates inflammation and reduces healing time, particularly by inhibiting the expression of the COX-2 membrane protein, known for releasing prostaglandins.

• Palmitic acid (20 to 45%), a saturated fatty acid.

  Palmitic acid is also a significant fatty acid found in piqui oil. Similar to oleic acid, it possesses a film-forming effect which allows it to create a protective veil on the skin's surface. Furthermore, palmitic acid plays a role in the formation of the epidermal barrier. According to studies conducted on human tissues, this fatty acid can be converted into ceramides, thereby enhancing the lipid content of the stratum corneum. Palmitic acid can also be used for the palmitoylation of certain skin-specific proteins that influence differentiation and cornification within the epidermis. This omega-7 is thus partly responsible for the nourishing properties of thepiqui oil.

• Linoleic acid (< 10%), a polyunsaturated fatty acid.

  Linoleic acid, a member of the omega-6 family, is a natural component of cell membranes. It plays a key role in maintaining the skin barrier by ensuring the continuity of the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum. Indeed, linoleic acid acts as a cellular cement to maintain cohesion between cells. In doing so, it prevents water loss and skin dehydration. Linoleic acid also contributes to the synthesis of acylceramides, specific ceramides. Finally, this fatty acid enables piqui oil to exert healing properties due to its role as a precursor in certain synthesis pathways of cellular regeneration mediators and angiogenesis.

• Stearic acid (1 to 5%), a saturated fatty acid.

  Recognised for its benefits on skin tissue, stearic acid possesses emollient and protective properties. Its mode of action is quite similar to that of oleic acid and palmitic acid. As a film-forming agent, it strengthens the hydrolipidic film present on the skin's surface, ensuring better protection against environmental factors such as sudden temperature changes, UV rays, wind...

• Palmitoleic acid (< 1%), a monounsaturated fatty acid.

  Palmitoleic acid is also naturally present in the human body. In the skin, it is found in the glycerides of adipose tissue. Derived from palmitic acid, its effects in topical application have been little studied. However, its chemical structure, closely related to that of palmitic acid, suggests that it would possess similar moisturising properties.

Piqui oil contains numerous carotenoids, which are responsible for the oil's orange hue. It notably contains beta-carotene, a pigment known for its ability to stimulate tanning by increasing melanin production in the skin. However, it should be noted that piqui oil does not contain enough beta-carotene to have this effect. Beta-carotene also has antioxidant properties, derived from its chemical structure rich in double bonds. Indeed, through its polyene chain, this active ingredient traps free radicals before they can attack DNA and other cellular constituents. Beta-carotene is also capable of inhibiting the production of lipid peroxides.

Beyond beta-carotene, piqui oil contains violaxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, neoxanthin, and beta-cryptoxanthin. These molecules, also part of the carotenoid family, possess photoprotective properties similar to those of beta-carotene and assist the skin in combating oxidative stress, particularly that caused by ultraviolet rays. Thanks to its richness in carotenoids, piqui oil could thus help to delay the photoaging process.

Pequi oil is also a good source of vitamins A, C and E, all three of which possess interesting properties for skin and hair health.

• Vitamin A.

  A valuable ally for mature skin, vitamin A possesses several cosmetic virtues. This potent antioxidant neutralises free radicals and protects the skin and hair from the harmful effects of oxidative stress. It also acts on melanin production by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme, thereby reducing brown spots. Finally, studies in vitro have shown that vitamin A can stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts.

• Vitamin C.

  Found in various forms in cosmetics, the vitamin C is also known for its strong antioxidant power and its beneficial effect on the radiance and uniformity of the complexion. Studies also report its action on pigmentation spots, as well as its ability to accelerate cell regeneration.

• Vitamin E.

  Often referred to as a preservative, the vitamin E also has anti-radical effects. It not only protects the skin and hair from oxidative stress, but also ensures the proper preservation of piqui oil. Mechanistic studies have also highlighted its anti-inflammatory power, particularly exerted via the inhibition of certain eicosanoids such as prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and leukotrienes.

Note : It is likely that the vitamin content of piqui oil is insufficient to enable it to exert the various benefits mentioned above. The scientific literature only reports that these antioxidant vitamins contribute to making piqui oil stable to oxidation.

Finally, a small amount of polyphenols, predominantly gallic acid, ellagic acid, and quercetin, can be found in piqui oil. These antioxidants protect skin cells from reactive oxygen species responsible for premature skin ageing and weakening of the hair follicle. Indeed, thanks to their chemical structure, which is particularly rich in double bonds, polyphenols can donate an electron to free radicals in order to stabilise them. They thus play an interesting protective role and, for example, help to delay the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines around the eyes or split ends in hair.

• GÜLZ P. G. & al. Composition of Lipids in Piqui (Caryocar coriaceum Wittm.) Seed and Pulp Oil. Journal for Nature Research (2014).

• MAXIEL GUEDES A. M. & co. Pequi: a Brazilian fruit with potential applications in the fat industry. OCL (2017).

• ALVES A. J. & co. The Fatty Acid Composition of Vegetable Oils and Their Potential Use in Wound Care. Progress in skin and wound care (2019).

• BOUWSTRA J. A. & al. The Role of Palmitic Acid in Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2019).