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Huile essentielle de géranium rosat

What is "Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil" and what is its utility?

"Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil" is the I.N.C.I. name corresponding to the essential oil of rose geranium. In cosmetics, this substance is recognised for its anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. It also stimulates collagen synthesis and helps to firm the skin.

Summary
Published March 11, 2022, updated on February 5, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 7 min read

The Pelargonium graveolens, a plant with a rose-like scent.

The Pelargonium graveolens is a shrub belonging to the Geraniaceae family. The name of this plant is derived from the Greek pelargós (πελαργός), which means stork, as the shape of the fruit resembles the beak of this bird. Originally from Southern Africa, it was imported into Europe at the end of the 16th century. Due to its fragrant and aesthetic flowers, it became very popular in the gardens of French chateaux. Numerous hybridisations were carried out, resulting in an exceptional variety of species: over 600 species are recorded today worldwide. However, only five or six varieties are exploited for the production of essential oil. Among these, we find the rose geranium, also known as bourbon geranium as it originates from Réunion. This latter is a hybrid species resulting from the reproduction between P. capitatum x P. graveolens and P. capitatum x P. radens. Its essential oil is widely used in perfumery, its fragrant molecules having a scent close to that of the rose, described as "a fragrance of roses and citrus, fresh, sweet and penetrating."

How is the essential oil of rose geranium obtained? What are its main characteristics?

The essential oil of rose geranium is extracted byhydrodistillationfrom theleaves of theshrub, that is, by steam distillation. The principle involves heating a mixture of water and leaves to evaporate the volatile molecules and collect them following condensation. This method allows obtaining two extracts, namely the hydrosol and the essential oil, with a relatively low yield ranging from 0.15 to 0.33%. The essential oil of rose geranium is a clear liquid of yellow-green colour, emitting a floral scent, similar to that of a rose. Its composition mainly contains monoterpenols (citronellol, geraniol, linalool), esters (citronellyl and geranyl formates), ketones (menthone and isomenthone) as well as oxides (cis and trans-rose oxides).

What are the virtues of rose geranium essential oil?

Its rich and varied biochemical composition bestows numerous benefits when applied topically.

  • Purifying, it limits imperfections.

    According to a 2017 study, geranium essential oil, and more specifically the monoterpenic alcohols (citronellol and geraniol) it contains, have purifying and anti-bacterial properties. The fungicidal action of these molecules helps to limit the proliferation of microorganisms involved in acne such as Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis. Furthermore, this essential oil regulates sebum production and mattifies oily skin that tends to shine.

  • Anti-inflammatory, it soothes redness.

    The monoterpenic esters found in rose geranium essential oil have a beneficial effect against acute and chronic inflammation. Furthermore, a study has demonstrated the inhibitory action of citronellol on mast cell degranulation and thus on the release of large amounts of histamine which promotes inflammatory responses.

  • Tonic, it firms the skin.

    Monoterpenic alcohols have the ability to tighten skin tissues. Due to this characteristic, geranium rose essential oil is recommended for mature skin, which is prone to skin sagging.

  • It stimulates the production of collagen.

    Skin ageing results from several factors, particularly the decrease in collagen levels in the dermis, the deep layer of the skin. This leads to a loss of elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. In skincare, rose geranium essential oil is specifically used to boost collagen production and thus slow down the appearance of ageing signs.

Geranium Rose Essential Oil: What are the contraindications?

This essential oil has the potential to cause allergies. When applied topically, it should not be used on infants under three months old.Topical use in a diluted form is possible for pregnant women who are more than 3 months along, but only on medical advice.

Note: It is advisable to test the essential oil before using it (apply two drops in the crook of your elbow for at least 24 hours to ensure there is no reaction).

In which Typology treatments can one find "Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil"?

Typology has developed three treatments containing rose geranium essential oil:

  • Thebotanical blend radiance with white rose helps to reveal the skin's radiance through the anti-oxidant and regenerative actions of 5 botanical extracts. These botanical extracts belong to 3 categories of active ingredients: plant cells, vegetable oils, and essential oils. With different compositions, they work in synergy and offer complementary actions on the skin. This treatment contains approximately 375,000 native cells of white rose. It is preferably used in the evening, before bedtime

  • Thepurifying botanical blend with peony also contains hazelnut oil with sebum-regulating properties. This night serum helps to purify the skin; it is particularly recommended for oily skin types.

  • The regenerating facial scrub with olive squalane helps to diminish the appearance of early signs of ageing. It gently exfoliates and unclogs pores. The gel transforms into an exfoliating oil under the effect of massage, then into a milk upon contact with water.

Note: these three products are contraindicated for pregnant women.

Sources:

  • Orchard A, et al. Commercial essential oils as potential antimicrobials to treat skin diseases. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. (2017)

  • Kobayashi Y, et al. Inhibitory effects of geranium essential oil and its major component, citronellol, on degranulation and cytokine production by mast cells. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem, (2016).

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