What is "Magnesium PCA" and what is its utility?

Magnesium PCA, also known as magnesium PCA salt, is the magnesium form of pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid (PCA), derived from the amino acid glutamic acid, naturally present in the body. Chemically, PCA has a carboxyl function that allows it to create salts from minerals.

The magnesium PCA is obtained through a two-step mechanism:

1. Firstly, the PCA is formed by thermal cyclisation of glutamic acid derived from beet molasses (dehydration reaction).

2. Then, a chemical reaction is carried out between the PCA, previously formed, and magnesium oxide (MgO). The mixture is stirred, then filtered and atomised to obtain a pure compound, magnesium PCA.

The combination of PCA with a mineral adds value to its cosmetic activity. Thus, PCA plays a role as askin moisturiser, while magnesium is involved in the Krebs cycle, meaning it participates in the conversion of nutrients into usable energy. Therefore, magnesium PCA is a moisturising, revitalising, and regenerating active ingredient. It is described as a physio-energiser and a skin fatigue fighter.

As ahumectant agent and a hygroscopic molecule, magnesium PCA attracts and retains water molecules at the level of the stratum corneum. It also strengthens the skin barrier (i.e., the hydrolipidic film), thereby protecting the epidermis from external aggressions. Moreover, by participating in the skin's energy metabolism, the magnesium PCA promotes cellular regeneration. The production of fibrous proteins that make up the dermis (collagen and elastin) is stimulated, which helps to smooth features and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. However, this action can also be preventive and aim to limit the appearance of the first visible signs of ageing. In a cosmetic formula, the recommended dosage for magnesium PCA is between 0.5 and 3%.