The Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil is the I.N.C.I. nomenclature for theessential oil of immortelle. Thanks to its high concentration of neryl acetate, this plant compound stimulates the synthesis of collagen, a key protein in the skin, responsible for its firmness and tone.
What is "Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil" and what is its utility?
Summary
Published on February 5, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
The immortelle and its essential oil, an overview.
The Immortelle owes its name to the exceptional longevity of its flowers, even in dried bouquets.Also known as Italian Helichrysum, this bushy plant thrives in the silica-rich sandy soils of the Mediterranean basin.
From its flowering tops, the essential oil and hydrosol are extracted throughhydrodistillation. This involves carrying the aromatic molecules or volatile constituents (the essential oil) with steam, then cooling this steam which condenses in the essencier to produce the hydrosol. The essential oil of immortelle is precious, its yield is quite low (0.9 to 1.1% for a distillation duration between 1h45 and 2h). It presents itself as a clear, mobile liquid of a yellow colour with a subtle and ethereal scent.
CAUTION! This essential oil has the potential to cause allergies. It is contraindicated for external use in pregnant or breastfeeding women and children. It is also advisable not to use it in cases of heavy menstruation or anticoagulant treatment.
The cosmetic virtues of immortelle essential oil.
This essential oil primarily contains esters (neryl acetate), monoterpenes (limonene, pinenes), sesquiterpenes, and monoterpenols (nerol, linalool).
When applied topically, the neryl acetate found in the essential oil of immortelle stimulates the production of collagen, a fibrous protein present in the dermis that ensures flexibility and firmness to the skin but whose content decreases with age. By boosting the synthesis of this protein, the essential oil of immortelle thus slows the appearance of signs related to skin ageing (wrinkles, sagging...).
Furthermore, the sesquiterpene carbides it contains have a anti-inflammatory activity. These molecules soothe redness and irritation caused, for example, by overexposure to the sun or certain skin conditions such as acne.
Finally, the essential oil of immortelle boosts blood circulation for a more plump skin and a more radiant complexion. Indeed, the alpha-pinene it contains is a compound recognised for its circulatory and draining virtues.
Which Typology skincare products contain immortelle essential oil?
Our botanical firming blend with prickly pear also containsessential oil of immortelle. This night serum helps to firm the skin thanks to the toning and regenerating actions of 7 botanical extracts.
The firming night mask withprickly pear oil and Italian helichrysum essential oil nourishes the skin deeply, regenerates and firms the epidermis for a smooth and even appearance upon waking. It is suitable for all skin types and is applied in a thin layer on the face once or twice a week, before bedtime.
Sources
Faucon, M., & Canac, P., Traité d'Aromathérapie scientifique et médicale, les huiles essentielles, Paris: Éd. Sang de la Terre, (2018).
Dorene Petersen, Immortelle Essential Oil and Extract: Are Two Preparations Better than One?, Journal of the American Herbalists Guild, (2015).
