What is "Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil" and what is its purpose?

The Citrus reticulata Blanco , or mandarin tree, is a species belonging to the Rutaceae family. It is a non-hybrid variety originating from China, cultivated for millennia for its fruit. The mandarin owes its name to its colour, reminiscent of the silk robes worn by the Mandarins, high-ranking officials of the Chinese Empire. The mandarin tree only arrived in Europe, particularly in Provence, around 1800, four hundred years after the orange, thanks to the Portuguese. It is now widely cultivated in the warm and sunny areas of the planet, especially around the Mediterranean (Algeria, Morocco, Spain, etc...).

Unlike many essential oils that are obtained through hydrodistillation, mandarin essence is extracted by first cold pressing of the pericarps of fresh fruits (zests). This process allows the preservation of the fruit's constituents, namely terpenes, such as limonene, the gamma-terpinene and linalool, aldehydes, including citronellal, citral and decanal, flavonoids and esters.

There are different types of mandarin essential oils: green, yellow, or red. Contrary to what we might think, these are not three different species of mandarin. There is only one, the Citrus reticulata Blanco. The difference lies in the degree of fruit maturity at the time of essential oil extraction and therefore the harvest period. Indeed, during the autumn, the mandarin is rich in chlorophyll, its pericarp is then green. As winter approaches, the chlorophyll gradually disappears and the mandarin takes on an orange colour, passing through yellow. They all have the same properties and uses ; the difference is in their colour, but also in their scent : the yellow mandarin has a softer, sweeter smell, while the green mandarin is more tangy.

When applied topically, mandarin essential oil is recognised for its properties purifying. By balancing sebum production, it prevents the appearance of skin imperfections, including blackheads and acne spots. The presence of monoterpenes also makes it an active ingredient against inflammation, which helps to soothe redness and tightness.

When applied to hair, "Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil" is used to "detoxify" the hair. Once purified, the hair fibres regain their flexibility and shine. It also soothes irritated scalps prone to itching.

Furthermore, the essential oil of mandarin acts as a fragrance agent in numerous formulations. It is particularly used to mask the odours of certain unpleasant active ingredients, or simply, to provide a touch of freshness to the formulas.