Among tinted cosmetic products, lip treatments are the most widely used.
Far from being sticky and heavy, the tinted lip oil is a light yet nourishing formula, which imparts a glossy, plumping effect to the lips. Situated between a lip gloss and a classic lip balm, this hybrid product delicately tints the lips while providing comprehensive care and optimal protection against external aggressors and dehydration. These various benefits of tinted lip oils are due to its composition. This type of product is an oil-only monophase, meaning it is composed exclusively of lipophilic ingredients, fatty substances.
Tinted lip oils are composed of film-forming agents (between 40 and 55%).
Film-forming agents are the main constituents of tinted lip oils. They provide structure to the formulation while optimising application comfort. Their primary function is to create a uniform, flexible film on the lip surface that enhances spreadability, wear and moisture retention. By forming this thin protective layer, they limit water evaporation, strengthen hydration and act as a barrier against external aggressors, whilst reducing product transfer.
This ability to form a continuous film also enables to intensify and stabilise colour payoff: the shade adheres more effectively to the lip surface, remains even for longer and fades more harmoniously. The film-forming agents also contribute to the product’s sensory profile. They thicken the formulation and impart a smooth, enveloping and slightly viscous texture that glides effortlessly upon application.
What film-forming agents are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
We generally identify several types of film-forming agents in tinted lip oils. Polymers (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer...) are among the most commonly used. These formulations may also include natural waxes. The most prevalent are carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera Cera), beeswax (Cera Alba) and candelilla wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Cera). Finally, some tinted oils use polyglycerides, multifunctional esters derived from the glycerolysis of fatty acids, such as the Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate or Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate.
Tinted lip oils contain emollients (between 30% and 50%).
In addition to providing consistency to the formulation, emollient agents play an essential role in maintaining lips soft, smooth and supple. They contribute to restoring the skin’s natural lipid barrier by filling the gaps between the cells of the stratum corneum, which enhances comfort and limits dehydration. Some emollients also possess antioxidant properties that help protect the lips from free radicals and the degradation of collagen. Finally, these ingredients give the tinted oil a pleasant, velvety, non-greasy texture that glides on easily while leaving a comfortable finish on the lips.
Which emollients are frequently found in tinted lip oils?
The main emollients found in lip oil formulations are light esters (Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate...), volatile silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane...) and vegetable oils, such as the plum oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil), the coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil) and the jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil).
For environmental reasons, at Typology we use neither mineral oils/waxes, nor silicones.
Tinted lip oils contain antioxidants (approximately 0.01%).
The vegetable oils in the lip oil formulation are prone to oxidation when exposed to air, light or heat. This oxidation process can lead to product deterioration, a loss of efficacy and an unpleasant rancid odour. Antioxidants therefore help to slow down or prevent this process, by neutralising the free radicals which trigger the oxidation of the unsaturated fatty acids in the vegetable oils. This extends the product’s shelf life and ensures its long-term stability. Similarly, the pigments used in tinted oils can also be susceptible to oxidation, potentially causing the colour to change over time. Antioxidants thus prevent them from degrading and the product from shifting in shade when exposed to environmental factors.
Beyond the mere preservation of the product, antioxidants also contribute to the protection of the lips, which are sensitive to oxidative stress generated by environmental aggressors (UV rays, pollution...).
Which antioxidants are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
In lip oil formulations, it is not uncommon to encounter the following antioxidants: vitamin E (Tocopherol), vitamin C and its derivatives (Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside...), the coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone), and plant extracts rich in polyphenols and flavonoids (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract...).
Good to know : Plumping agents, such as red pepper extract (Capsicum annuum), the peppermint essential oil (Mentha piperita) or even black pepper extract (Piper nigrum), can be added to the formulation of a tinted oil. They deliver an immediate but temporary plumping effect to the lips, either by hydration, by stimulating blood circulation or by causing a mild, controlled irritation.
Pearlescent pigments and/or colourants (between 0.5 and 1 per cent) are present in tinted lip oils.
When it comes to tinted skincare, we’re talking pigments. Natural (extracted from flowers or fruits) or synthetic (iron oxides), they are incorporated into the formulation to impart a subtle colour as an additional touch. Versatile, the pigments can be combined to control shade intensity, achieve undertones (cool, warm, neutral) and create a variety of hues. For example, blending red, brown and pink pigments yields an extremely natural, slightly rosy lip shade. Beyond the colour provided by pigments, pearlescent pigments, such as micas, can also be incorporated into lip oils to add extra allure to the product by reflecting light, creating a subtle shimmering finish on the lips.
Dispersion agents, at concentrations of 0.05–0.1%, are present in tinted lip oils.
When pigments and pearlescent materials are employed, suspension agents must be added to help distribute them throughout the oil phase, as oils and pigments do not naturally mix. Without these agents, the pigments and pearlescent materials risk agglomerating or settling at the bottom of the bottle, resulting in uneven colour deposits and compromising application quality. Dispersing agents also ensure that the shade remains uniform on the lips throughout the product’s use.
Which dispersing agents are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
Among the dispersing agents commonly present in the formulation of tinted lip oils are micronised silica particles, polyethylene, magnesium stearate and trimethylsiloxysilicate.
To enhance the sensory experience and provide a pleasant fragrance (fruity or sweet notes) during application, some flavourings and/or fragrances are often added to tinted lip oils.