Pearlescents are often found in cosmetics, providing a shimmering effect to the product containing them, as well as to the skin. Here in this article is everything you need to know about pearlescents.
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Everything there is to know about mother-of-pearl.
Summary
- How is mother-of-pearl produced?
- What are the skin properties of mother-of-pearl?
- What are the side effects and usage precautions associated with the use of pearlescent pigments?
- Sources
Published June 18, 2024,
updated on July 1, 2024,
by
Kahina, Scientific Editor
—
4 min read
How is mother-of-pearl produced?
Mica, also known as mother of pearl, is a silicate mineral found in various substances, including crystals and granite. Mica is widely used in the cosmetic industry to give beauty products a metallic and shiny appearance, and it adds a sparkle to coloured cosmetic products. The concentrations of pigments vary depending on the product, ranging from 1% to 60%.
There exists mica of natural origin and mica of synthetic origin.
Natural Mica.
Natural mica is derived from raw ores. The chunks are then ground and sieved to produce a fine powder.
Once the mica ore is ground into a powder, purification methods are used to remove impurities, such as flotation and magnetic separation. Flotation uses chemical reagents to selectively separate the mica from other minerals, while magnetic separation utilises magnetic fields to attract and isolate magnetic minerals, leaving behind a purified mica powder.
The final stage of the refining process involves drying and grading the refined mica powder. Drying removes any residual moisture, ensuring its stability and shelf life. Once dried, the mica powder is graded based on particle size and purity, guaranteeing the uniformity and quality of the ingredient.
Synthetic mica.
Synthetic mica is typically produced through a process of fusion, using silica sand (SiO2), magnesium oxide (MgO), aluminium oxide (Al2O3), potassium silicofluoride (K2SiF6), or sodium silicofluoride (Na2SiF6). These materials are heated, melted, cooled, and crystallised. This method results in a crystal of high purity.
What are the skin properties of mother-of-pearl?
We often hear that pearlescents, such as micas, when included in cosmetic products, could make the skin smoother, or even have effects against the acceleration of skin ageing.
However, it should be noted that no study has proven any effect of micas on the skin. Micas are not active ingredients.
The only proven utility of micas included in cosmetic products is their aestheticaspect. Indeed, their ability to reflect light allows them to give a radiant, luminous appearance to the skin.
What are the side effects and usage precautions associated with the use of pearlescent pigments?
The daily use of mica in skincare products should not lead to harmful side effects. Indeed, this ingredient is considered as safe to use. However, as we do not all react in the same way to cosmetic products, minor adverse effects may occur in allergic individuals. Mica can potentially irritate the skin and eyes, causing itching and redness.
As a precaution, you can perform a skin test of the product containing micas by applying a small amount of the product in the crook of your elbow, on the inside of your wrist or behind the ear, then wait 48 hours to observe any possible skin reactions.
The available information regarding the safety of micas for the skin of pregnant and breastfeeding women, as well as children, is not sufficient to make a definitive statement on the subject. Therefore, we advise you to consult with your doctor before using a cosmetic product containing micas if you are in a similar situation.
Sources
OHTA S-I. Synthetic mica and its applications. Clay Science (2006).
TOPOROWSKA M. & al. Health effects of dyes, minerals, and vitamins used in cosmetics. Women (2021).
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