The facial skin is directly exposed to various external aggressions, such as the sun's UV rays, pollution particles, cold, wind... In response to this, the hydrolipidic film deteriorates and the loss of transepidermal water increases. In other words, the skin becomes dehydrated, leading to the appearance of fine lines and a dull complexion. The hydrating mask helps to combat this phenomenon. Let's discover together the main ingredients that make it up.
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What is a facial hydrating mask composed of?
Summary
- Hydrating actives and others
- Humectant compounds
- Texturising agents to give the skincare product its consistency
- Preservatives to prevent micro-bacterial developments
Published February 15, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
8 min read
Topics:
Hydrating actives and others.
The primary function of a moisturising mask is to increase the skin's hydration level. To achieve this, the majority of such products contain active ingredients with recognised hydrating properties of which here are a few examples:
Thehyaluronic acid (INCI: "Sodium Hyaluronate"):
Behind this scientific name lies a key ally in combating dehydration fine lines and signs of ageing. Naturally present in the dermis, this molecule allows the skin to remain hydrated and firm. It acts like a molecular sponge and can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Furthermore, it serves as a support for collagen and elastin fibres. Thus, it plays a fundamental role in the density and tonicity of the skin. Unfortunately, over the years, its content in the dermis decreases and the skin slackens. From the age of 50, it is proven that the level of hyaluronic acid is halved. Therefore, it is relevant to supply it to the skin through skincare products in order to stimulate its production at the dermis level and deeply hydrate the skin to prevent the appearance of wrinkles.
The aloe vera gel (INCI: "Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder") :
This plant extract contains substances that act as amoisture shieldon the skin, known asglucomannans. Researchers have shown that when aloe vera gel is applied to the skin, the long-chain mucopolysaccharides polymerise, forming a thin semi-permeable film that provides a moisturising effect and limits insensible water loss.
Theextract of tremella (INCI: "Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract"):
Tremella is a gelatinous fungus from which it is possible to extract a natural hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight, capable of penetrating deeply into the skin. Rich in polysaccharides and fatty acids, the tremella extract also forms a microscopic film on the skin's surface and enhances the impermeability of the skin barrier.
Hydrating masks can also contain compounds with brightening properties to provide a glow to dull and tired complexions. Thus, certain hydrosols can be incorporated into this type of formula such as theorange blossom hydrosol (INCI: "Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water") or thecornflower hydrosol (INCI: "Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water").
The hydrating face mask from Typology combines aloe vera gel with tremella extract and the previously mentioned orange blossom hydrosol. It is preferably applied once or twice a week, in a semi-thick layer and provides a shot of hydration to the skin.
Humectant compounds.
The humectant nature of an ingredient is based on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power (strong affinity for water). On the market, the potential humectant compounds present in a hydrating mask are the glycerine, propylene glycol, the PEG (polyethylene glycol) or even pentylene glycol. Hydrogenated starch hydrolysates (HSH) are also humectant compounds often found in natural and/or organic hydrating masks as they are permitted according to the COSMOS standard.
As a reminder, in the interest of caution, Typology excludes PEGs and propylene glycol from its formulas. The hydrating face mask presented above contains vegetable glycerin combined with pentylene glycol and HSH (INCI: "Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate").
Texturising agents to give the skincare product its consistency.
Typically, hydrating masks have a consistent, gel-like or even waxy texture. This characteristic is imparted to the product through texturising agents, which are most often polymers. Here is a non-exhaustive list of thickening agents found in hydrating masks:
The sclerotium gum (INCI: "Sclerotium Gum"):
Derived from a fungus of the Sclerotium genus, this long-chain carbohydrate is used as a natural emulsion stabiliser and viscosity adjuster.
The xanthan gum (INCI: "Xanthan Gum"):
Of natural origin, this aqueous phase thickener is a blend of natural sugar polymers produced by biotechnology.
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum"):
Also known as Peruvian carob, this natural polysaccharide is derived from the endosperm of the seed of the tara tree (Caesalpinia spinosa), which grows in the Peruvian Andes.
Within the hydrating mask presented above, the gelling agents used are tara gum combined with sclerotium gum.
Preservatives to prevent micro-bacterial developments.
The hydrating mask, typically a single-phase aqueous solution, is susceptible to bacterial growth. In response to this, it is essential to incorporate preservatives to maintain the product's effectiveness and safety. In natural skincare, sodium benzoate is often used as an antifungal preservative. Although permitted in organic products, its use is regulated. The maximum allowed concentration in finished preparations is 2.5% (in acid) for rinse-off products, excluding oral care products, and 0.5% (in acid) for leave-on products. Sodium benzoate (INCI name: "Sodium Benzoate") is the preservative used in the hydrating mask by Typology.
Note : Some moisturising masks may contain synthetic preservatives such as parabens; be aware, some of these are recognised as endocrine disruptors. As a precautionary principle, Typology excludes this type of ingredients from its formulas.
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