What is "Tremella Fuciformis Extract" and what is its utility?

The Tremella fuciformis, also known as silver ear fungus, is a gelatinous white mushroom that grows on the bark of dead trees. It is primarily found in the subtropical regions of Asia. This fungus is traditionally present in many Chinese and Japanese culinary specialties, even though it doesn't have much taste (it is mainly appreciated for its gelatinous texture when boiled). In Chinese medicine, it is recognised for its antitumour, antidiabetic, and anti-inflammatory pharmacological activities. TheTremella fuciformisis thus listed in the Shen Nong Ben Cao, the oldest Chinese medical book dating back to 2800 BC.

Due to its rich and varied biochemical composition (proteins, vitamin D, polysaccharides, amino acids, minerals, glycogen), tremella extract has several virtues when applied topically.

• Limiting photoaging and collagen degradation.

Thanks to its antioxidant properties, this plant-based active ingredient protects the skin from repeated attacks by free radicals. As a reminder, these are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are exposed to a stress such as the sun's UV rays, they generate them excessively. This phenomenon has a name: oxidative stress. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules due to their unpaired electrons. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, and then cause damage by attacking the body's healthy molecules such as the lipids that make up cell membranes (lipid peroxidation) or proteins such as collagen. Skin ageing accelerates and wrinkles appear on the skin's surface. The acidic polysaccharides present in this plant extract are capable of neutralising the superoxide anion, denoted O₂.⁻ , preventing it from causing harm and degrading collagen and membrane lipids. Thus, the extract of Tremella delays ageing and protects skin cells from external aggressions.

• Hydrating the skin.

The polysaccharides found in this plant extract have the ability to form a microscopic filmon the surface of the skin enhancing the impermeability of the skin barrier. This limits insensible water loss, thus the skin stays hydrated for longer, avoiding several discomforts such as dehydration fine lines or feelings of dryness and tightness.

Furthermore, this fungus containshyaluronic acidof natural low molecular weight, capable of penetrating deeply into the skin. As a reminder, hyaluronic acid is a compound naturally present mainly in the dermis that acts like a molecular sponge: it is capable of binding up to1,000 times its weight in water. Its function is to ensure skin hydration. Moreover, it contributes to the formation of the connective tissue of the dermis and serves as a support for collagen and elastin fibres. It thus plays a fundamental role in thedensityandfirmnessof the skin. However, over the years, the body's production of hyaluronic acid tends to decrease (a drop of about 6% per decade), which leads to the appearance of the first wrinkles and fine lines on the surface of the epidermis. It is therefore interesting to supply it to the epidermis through dermocosmetic care containing active ingredients rich in hyaluronic acid, such as the extract ofTremella fuciformis.