What are the properties of Tremella fuciformis on the skin?

The Tremella fuciformis, also known by the common names of silver ear and snow fungus, is a gelatinous white fungus found in tropical regions. It grows on the trunk of dead trees. In China, it is one of the most popular mushrooms in cooking, even though it doesn't have much taste (it is mainly appreciated for its gelatinous texture when boiled). It has also been renowned for years in traditional Chinese medicine due to its hepatoprotective virtues and its ability to stimulate haematopoiesis and blood circulation. The Tremella fuciformis is listed in the Shen Nong Ben Cao, the oldest Chinese medical book dating back to 2,800 BC.

In skincare, this fungus is present in the form of a plant extract referred to by the I.N.C.I. name of "Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract". It offers several benefits for the skin, detailed below.

Rich in polysaccharides and fatty acids, thetremella extract forms a microscopic film on the skin's surface and enhances the impermeability of the skin barrier.

Furthermore, from this jelly-like fungus, we extract a natural hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight, capable of penetrating deeper into the skin. As a reminder, hyaluronic acid is a compound naturally present in the skin, primarily in the dermis, acting as a molecular sponge: it is capable of binding up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Its function is to ensure skin hydration. Moreover, it contributes to the formation of the dermis' connective tissue and serves as a support for collagen and elastin fibres. Thus, it plays a fundamental role in the density and firmness of the skin. However, over the years, the body's production of hyaluronic acid tends to decrease (a drop of about 6% per decade), which leads to the appearance of the first wrinkles and fine lines on the surface of the epidermis. Therefore, it is beneficial to supply the epidermis with hyaluronic acid through dermocosmetic treatments containing hyaluronic acid-rich actives, such as the extract of Tremella fuciformis.

The extract of Tremella fuciformis not only has a hydrating effect, but it also possesses antioxidant properties.

Indeed, this plant-based active ingredient protects the skin from repeated attacks by free radicals. As a reminder, these arereactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are faced with astress, they generate them excessively. This phenomenon has a name: it's calledoxidative stress. The contributing factorsare numerous, the main ones being UV exposure, pollution, smoking, and a diet too rich in fats and/or sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules due to theirunpaired electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form anelectron pair, and in doing so, causedamage by attacking the body's healthy molecules such as the lipids that make up cell membranes (lipid peroxidation) or proteins such as collagen and elastin. This accelerates skin ageing and wrinkles appear on the skin's surface.

The phenolic acids present in the extract of Tremella fuciformis specifically neutralise the superoxide anion, denoted as O₂.⁻, preventing it from causing harm and degrading the healthy compounds present in the skin. Thus, this plant-based active ingredient slows down ageing and protects skin cells from external aggressions.