What is the formulation of an under-eye concealer?

The concealers are cosmetic products designed to conceal dark circles and imperfections. Their formulation combines covering agents, solvents, oils, emulsifiers and sometimes active ingredients. Whatever their shade, concealers are formulated to provide a smooth application, long-lasting wear and comfort on a particularly delicate area of skin.

• Aqueous solvent and humectants.

  The base of a concealer is often an aqueous phase that acts as a solvent to blend various ingredients and facilitate application. Water (INCI: Aqua / Water) is the main component, sometimes enriched with hydrosols or plant extracts with soothing properties, such as chamomile water (Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water) or cornflower water (Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water) Humectants, such as glycerin, are often added to maintain hydration and prevent the delicate area of the eye contour from drying out.

• Oil phase and emollients.

  The oil phase plays a key role in the coverage and adhesion of concealer. It often contains vegetable oils, such as jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), sweet almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil) or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, which help to soften the skin, facilitate the spreading of pigment and enhance the tactile feel. These emollients also contribute to reducing transepidermal water loss in this delicate area.

• Emulsifiers and stabilisers.

  To ensure the cohesion of the formula and the stability of the emulsion, surfactants and stabilising agents are incorporated. Examples include glyceryl stearate (Glyceryl Stearate) or cetearyl olivate (Cetearyl Olivate). These ingredients help to maintain a uniform texture and prevent the separation of the aqueous and oil phases.

• Pigments and opacifying agents.

  Pigments are essential for effectively concealing dark circles and evening out skin tone. Concealers primarily contain micronised mineral pigments, such as titanium dioxide (CI 77891) for opacity and light reflectance, and iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) to achieve various shades from beige to brown. In some cases, synthetic pigments or pearlescent additives may be incorporated to correct the bluish or purplish tints of dark circles.

• Thickening and texturising agents.

  To adjust consistency and ease application, thickening agents such as xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum) or magnesium aluminium silicate (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate) are included. They create a creamy texture that blends easily and remains in place without migrating into fine lines.

• Preservatives and antioxidants.
  Like all water-based cosmetics, concealers require preservatives to prevent microbial proliferation. There are many, but for example one can mention phenoxyethanol (Phenoxyethanol), criticised for its potential to irritate, or potassium sorbate (Potassium Sorbate), generally better tolerated. Antioxidants such as vitamin E (Tocopherol) can also be added to protect oils and pigments from oxidation.

• Active ingredients.

  Some under-eye concealers combine immediate camouflage with long-term care and incorporate active ingredients that hydrate, firm, depigment or stimulate blood circulation. They may contain hyaluronic acid, peptides, retinoids or plant extracts.

At Typology, we have formulated a tinted concealer that can be considered a hybrid product, halfway between skincare and make-up. Indeed, this formulation, containing 97% ingredients of natural origin, offers high coverage for the immediate camouflage of under-eye circles and imperfections, while also incorporating actives that help attenuate long-term signs of fatigue. Typology’s tinted concealer features three principal actives: the caffeine, a molecule known for its ability to stimulate microcirculation and thus attenuate vascular dark circles, the niacinamide, which helps restore the skin’s barrier function, and the cornflower hydrosol, providing a decongesting action around the eye contour.

The precise composition of Typology’s tinted concealer and the role of each ingredient are presented in the table below.