What is the purpose of preservatives?

For a molecule to be classified as a preservative, it is not enough for it to have antimicrobial properties: it must be included in the list of preservatives permitted in cosmetic products, available in Annex V of European Regulation No. 1223/2009. This list also specifies in which type of product each preservative can be incorporated and in what quantity. 59 preservatives are currently listed. Among them, it is important to know that only five are authorised for use in organic cosmetics : benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, and potassium sorbate. Preservatives can be divided into two categories: synthetic preservatives and natural preservatives.

• Synthetic Preservatives : Synthetic preservatives allow for a good understanding of the toxicity and safety of ingredients and are generally effective at low concentrations. Moreover, they have a fairly broad spectrum of activity against bacteria and fungi. The most commonly found synthetic preservatives are organohalogen compounds, such as triclosan and chlorphenesin, aldehydes such as formaldehyde and bronopol, glycol ethers, like phenoxyethanol and ethoxydiglycol, and parabens, such as methylparaben and butylparaben.

• Natural Preservatives : Natural preservatives, which comply with the ISO 16128 standard, often have a better reputation than synthetic preservatives. Moreover, they can generally adapt to a wide pH range. The most commonly used natural preservatives are benzoic acid and sorbic acid.

There also exist compounds that possess antimicrobial preservation properties, but this is not their primary function: they are sometimes referred to as unlisted preservatives. This is the case, for example, with radish ferment extract (INCI: Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate). Furthermore, certain molecules that help to preserve cosmetics from degradation due to exposure to oxygen (antioxidant function) or UV light (photoprotective function) can also be added to cosmetics. Although they are not strictly considered as preservatives by European Regulation No. 1223/2009, they are commonly used to extend the shelf life of products. Among these "pseudo" preservatives, we notably find vitamin E.

What preservatives can be found in Typology skincare products?

In line with our formulation charter, at Typology, we exclude preservatives suspected of being harmful to health. We frequently use o-cymen-5-ol, a synthetic preservative, and dehydroacetic acid, a natural preservative, both of which have a good safety profile. Additionally, to improve the preservation of our treatments, we often add radish ferment extract and the bacteria Lactobacillus ferment, unlisted preservatives.

It is possible for certain cosmetics to be formulated without preservatives without endangering consumers: these are products that possess only an oily or anhydrous phase. As stated above, in the absence of water, microorganisms such as bacteria, yeasts, and moulds cannot grow. Therefore, it is not necessary to add preservative agents. These products are most often based on vegetable oils, butters or waxes and thus have a natural microbiological stability. Other cosmetics need to be composed of at least one preservative.

Note : Consumers play a crucial role in the proper preservation of their cosmetic products. Adhering to the use-by dates, periods after opening, storing the products in a cool, dry place away from light, and regularly checking their organoleptic properties (colour, texture, smell...) are key behaviours to adopt.

The 59 preservatives listed by European Regulation No. 1223/2009 and appearing in Annex V are compiled in the table below.