Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally found in our skin, but its concentration tends to decrease with age, leading to skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles. To counteract this issue, there are numerous cosmetic treatments (serums, creams, masks...) containing this active ingredient at various concentrations. How do you make the right choice? What is the most effective concentration? We are here to help you understand better.
What concentration of hyaluronic acid is most effective for the skin?
Published on May 13, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
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Hyaluronic Acid in Cosmetics: What is the Optimal Concentration?
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan found in the extracellular matrix of the dermis, playing a significant role in its metabolism. Being highly hydrophilic, this macromolecule can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it a key agent in maintaining the skin tissue's hydration. Due to its moisturising properties, hyaluronic acid is widely used in cosmetics. Its concentration in skincare and haircare products is not strictly regulated, however, it is generally incorporated at rates between 0.01 and 3%. In addition to its effects on the skin, hyaluronic acid has thickening properties for products, making it difficult to formulate beyond 1% and likely to cause pilling.
Regarding the effectiveness of skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is not necessarily correlated with the concentration of the active ingredient. Indeed, an independent study conducted in 2011 with 76 volunteers showed that the twice-daily application of a cream with 0.1% hyaluronic acid salts hyaluronic acid could significantly increase skin hydration (≈ +10%) and elasticity (≈ +20%), and reduce wrinkle depth (≈ -10%).
Furthermore, we have compared two non-independent clinical studies, each focusing on the effects of a serum with 0.4% hyaluronic acid and a serum with 3% hyaluronic acid respectively. The first study involved 52 volunteers who applied the product daily for four weeks. The second study relied on 22 individuals who used the skincare product twice a day for four weeks. The results obtained regarding skin softness and firmness are compiled in the table below. It should be noted that this assessment should be taken with caution as it is based on purely qualitative observations, made by the volunteers themselves, and not on quantified results. Moreover, this is by no means a comparative study between the two serums, as the participants differed from one study to another.
| Concentration of hyaluronic acid in the tested serum | Participants who found their skin more supple and soft | Participants who found their skin firmer |
|---|---|---|
| 0.4% | 92 % | 73 % |
| 3 % | 77 % | 59 % |
It would appear that a skincare product containing between 0.1 and 0.4% hyaluronic acid can be just as effective as a product containing 3%. Currently, there is a lack of scientific evidence to assert that a certain concentration of hyaluronic acid is superior to another. Therefore, when choosing your hyaluronic acid product, we advise you not to solely consider the concentration of hyaluronic acid, but also take into account its organoleptic characteristics (texture, viscosity, rate of absorption...) and look at the other ingredients it contains, so that the product can truly address your concern.
Sources
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
ANDERSEN F. A. & others. Final report on the safety evaluation of hyaluronic acid, potassium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate. International Journal of Toxicology (2009).
PAVICIC T. & al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011).
HUSSAIN Z. & al. Hyaluronic Acid, a Promising Skin Rejuvenating Biomedicine: A Review of Recent Updates and Pre-Clinical and Clinical Investigations on Cosmetic and Nutricosmetic Effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2018).
NIELSEN M. & al. A dermocosmetic formulation incorporating Vichy volcanic mineralising water, Vitreoscilla filiformis extract, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin E rejuvenates and repairs acutely stressed skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2022).
