What are the hair-care benefits of panthenol?

The panthenol, or provitamin B5, is an active ingredient commonly used to formulate cosmetic care products. Easily absorbed by the skin, this alcohol derived from pantothenic acid is highly valued for its compatibility with numerous ingredients and its mildness. Panthenol is also ideal for alleviating feelings of tightness. Indeed, it acts as a humectant, retaining water within the epidermis of the scalp, which minimises insensible water loss. Panthenol thus helps to maintain the skin barrier, thereby preventing irritations.

These moisturising and soothing properties have moreover been documented in the scientific literature, including in sensitive skin contexts. A clinical study conducted in adults and infants evaluated the effects of an emollient containing panthenol on skin hydration. In adults, a single application followed by twice-daily use over four weeks led to a significant and sustained increase in stratum corneum hydration. Raman spectroscopy analyses also demonstrated a redistribution of water towards the deeper layers of the stratum corneum, suggesting more profound and functionally effective hydration of the skin barrier. The same results were observed in infants.

Although these findings relate to the skin rather than specifically to the scalp, they support the benefits of panthenol in reinforcing hydration and barrier function, key parameters for maintaining a comfortable scalp that is less prone to irritation.

Furthermore, pro-vitamin B5 offers restorative and healing effects that are beneficial for the care of fragile scalps. Several studies have indeed demonstrated that this active ingredient can stimulate fibroblast proliferation, an important process in new tissue formation and wound remodelling. This ingredient can also upregulate certain genes involved in wound healing such as CXCL1, CCL18 and CYP1B1, thus enabling faster re-epithelialisation.

The dandruff is caused by excessive desquamation of the scalp, most often associated with an imbalance in the skin flora, notably by an overgrowth of yeasts of the genus Malassezia, and to a more or less marked local inflammation. Management relies on the use of active compounds with keratolytic properties, such as salicylic acid, which facilitate the removal of scales, and antifungal compounds, such as piroctone olamine or ciclopirox olamine, aiming to normalise the populations of Malassezia.

Panthenol cannot strictly be regarded as an anti-dandruff agent, since it exhibits neither antifungal activity nor a keratolytic effect.

Conversely, its hydrating, soothing and reparative properties make it a valuable ingredient to incorporate into anti-dandruff formulations. Pro-vitamin B5 can indeed contribute to improving the tolerability of anti-dandruff treatments and to limiting the itching sensations that can accompany dandruff.

This approach is illustrated by a clinical study conducted with 20 patients presenting a seborrhoeic dermatitis of the scalp ranging from moderate to severe. Participants were treated for four weeks with a care regimen combining keratolytic and antifungal actives (salicylic acid, piroctone olamine, zinc PCA), supplemented by moisturising and soothing agents, including panthenol. The results showed a significant reduction in dandruff, itching and redness as early as the fourth week, with an overall clinical improvement observed in 80% of the patients. Furthermore, the treatment was well tolerated and no adverse effects were reported, likely in part due to panthenol.

Each hair fibre is structured into three layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. The cuticle, the outermost layer, consists of overlapping flat keratin-rich cells. The alignment of these cells is essential to protect the inner layers, prevent breakage and give the hair its shine and softness. To preserve this organisation, it is recommended to apply a conditioner after each wash. Pro-vitamin B5 is one of the actives frequently found in this type of treatment as it has moisturising and protective properties for the lengths.

The effects of a panthenol-, dimethicone- and silanetriol-based conditioner were tested on strands of dyed hair. The colouring process can damage hair quality and result in keratin loss in the fibres. This loss was quantified with and without conditioner application. Likewise, styling resistance, defined as the subjective perception of how difficult or easy the hair is to style, as well as the elastic properties of the fibres, were evaluated. The results are summarised in the table below and show a protective effect of panthenol, at least when combined with silanetriol and dimethicone.

Note : These protective effects of panthenol are particularly beneficial for curly or coily hair, which is often more porous and fragile.

Credit is also given to panthenol for its ability to accelerate hair growth. Several biological mechanisms are involved, notably the stimulation of alkaline phosphatase activity, a marker of the anagen phase. As a reminder, this phase corresponds to the growth stage of the hair cycle and is characterised by intense metabolic activity. Moreover, according to in vitro studies, provitamin B5 may reduce the mRNA expression of TGF-β1, a growth factor that induces hair follicles to enter the catagen, or resting, phase more rapidly.

A double-blind study conducted on 42 individuals with alopecia demonstrated that applying a shampoo containing salicylic acid (0.2%), panthenol (0.2%) and niacinamide (0.1%) could stimulate hair growth. Indeed, a 10.2% increase in hair density was recorded after 24 weeks. It can therefore be cautiously assumed that panthenol contributed to this enhancement, potentially acting in synergy with salicylic acid and niacinamide.

Whilst these initial findings are encouraging, they must be interpreted with caution given the small number of participants and the combined evaluation of several active ingredients. Further studies are necessary before one can conclude that panthenol genuinely promotes hair growth.

• LENZ H. & al. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: skin-moisturizing effect following single and prolonged usage in healthy adults, and tolerability in healthy infants. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2016).

• VELASCO M. V. & al. Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

• ZHANG L. & al. Dexpanthenol in wound healing after medical and cosmetic interventions (postprocedure wound healing). Pharmaceuticals (2020).

• LEE S. & al. Dexpanthenol promotes cell growth by preventing cell senescence and apoptosis in cultured human hair follicle cells. Current Issues in Molecular Biology (2021).

• LEE J. H. & al. Heat-treated Limosilactobacillus fermentum LM1020 with menthol, salicylic acid, and panthenol promotes hair growth and regulates hair scalp microbiome balance in androgenetic alopecia: A double-blind, randomized and placebo-controlled clinical trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).

• PI L. & al. A cohort clinical study on the efficacy of topical salicylic acid/piroctone olamine dandruff pre-gel and cleanser in improving symptoms of moderate to severe seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2025).