What are the hair benefits of panthenol?

The panthenol, or provitamin B5, is an active ingredient commonly used to formulate cosmetic care products. Easily absorbed by the skin, this alcohol derived from pantothenic acid is highly valued for its compatibility with numerous ingredients and its gentleness. Panthenol is also ideal for alleviating feelings of tightness. Indeed, it acts as a humectant to retain the water present in the epidermis of the scalp, which minimises insensible water loss (IWL). Panthenol thus helps to maintain the skin barrier, which prevents irritations.

Furthermore, the provitamin B5 exhibits reparative and healing effects that are beneficial for the care of weakened scalps. Several studies have indeed highlighted that this active ingredient can stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts, a crucial process in the formation of new tissues and wound remodelling. This active ingredient can also upregulate certain genes involved in wound healing such as CXCL1, CCL18 and CYP1B1, thus enabling faster re-epithelialisation.

Each hair strand is structured in 3 layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle, the outermost layer, is formed by an overlay of flat cells rich in keratin. The alignment of these cells is crucial to protect the inner layers, prevent breakage, and give the hair its shine and softness. To preserve this organisation, it is recommended to apply a conditioner after each wash. Provitamin B5 is one of the active ingredients frequently found in this type of care because it has moisturising and protective properties for the lengths.

The effects of a conditioner containing panthenol and silanetriol were tested on dyed hair strands. The colouring process can harm hair quality and lead to a loss of keratin within the fibres. This loss was quantified with and without the application of the conditioner. Similarly, styling resistance, defined as the subjective perception of the difficulty or ease with which hair can be styled, as well as the elastic properties of the fibres were evaluated. The results are compiled in the table below and show a protective effect of panthenol.

Panthenol is also credited with the ability to accelerate hair growth. Several biological mechanisms are involved, including the stimulation of alkaline phosphatase activity, a marker of the anagen phase. As a reminder, this phase corresponds to the growth stage of the hair cycle and is characterised by intense metabolic activity. Furthermore, according to in vitro studies, provitamin B5 could reduce the expression of TGF-β1 mRNA, a growth factor that more rapidly transitions hair follicles into the catagen, or resting phase.

A double-blind study conducted with 42 individuals suffering from alopecia demonstrated that the application of a shampoo containing salicylic acid (0.2%), panthenol (0.2%) and niacinamide (0.1%) could stimulate hair growth. Indeed, a 17.76% increase in hair count was measured after 24 weeks. Therefore, it can be cautiously assumed that panthenol played a role in this increase, potentially by acting in synergy with salicylic acid and niacinamide.

• LENZ H. & al. A new topical emollient containing panthenol: effect on skin hydration following single and extended use in healthy adults, and tolerability in healthy infants. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2016).

• VELASCO M. V. & al. Protective impact of conditioning agents on hair subjected to oxidative hair dye. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

• ZHANG L. & al. Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing following Medical and Cosmetic Procedures (Postprocedure Wound Healing). Pharmaceuticals (2020).