Panthenol for the skin: what are its virtues?

In cosmetics, the panthenol, or provitamin B5, is particularly valued for its moisturising properties. This active ingredient indeed has a strong humectant power and can strengthen the hydrolipidic film present on the skin's surface. In doing so, it helps to limit water loss and prevent dehydration fine lines. Once applied to the skin, panthenol is quickly absorbed by the superficial layers of the epidermis and transforms into pantothenic acid, a molecule also known as vitamin B5.

This latter is one of the constituents of coenzyme A, a coenzyme involved in many pathways of the body's metabolism, including at the skin level. Coenzyme A is notably involved in the synthesis of fatty acids and lipids, essential components of the skin's lipid barrier. Maintaining the integrity of the lipid barrier is paramount to limit transepidermal water evaporation.

The panthenol is also used to formulate creams or balms intended for weakened skin, presenting with heat sensations, cuts or irritations. This active ingredient can also be found in dermatological ointments due to its ability to promote re-epithelialisation of skin tissues. Indeed, in addition to its moisturising properties, which are necessary to ensure good healing, panthenol promotes skin regeneration by stimulating the differentiation of the epidermis. Studies in vitro have also shown that provitamin B5 can stimulate the expression of genes coding for molecules involved in the healing process, such as CXCL10, RARRES1, MUC4 and MUC16.

The healing potential of panthenol was also confirmed in a double-blind clinical trial involving 35 patients who had received a skin graft following burns. For 14 days, they applied a formulation containing 5% panthenol or a placebo cream to the affected areas. After two weeks, researchers noted that wounds healed more quickly on sites treated with panthenol. This observation was also corroborated by measurements of microcirculation, temperature, and biomechanical properties.