What are the benefits of moringa oil on the skin?

Like most vegetable oils, moringa oil is renowned for its moisturising properties. These properties stem from its interesting biochemical composition, particularly its richness in oleic acid (≈ 70%). This omega-9 plays a key role in skin hydration as it is part of the hydrolipidic film. This semi-aqueous and semi-oily protective veil aims to limit water loss and protect the skin from external aggressions. Moreover, moringa oil contains phytosterols, compounds recognised for their ability to capture and retain moisture. The moisturising virtues of moringa oil could also help slow down skin ageing, and more specifically the onset of dehydration fine lines.

A recent clinical study has quantified the moisturising potential of moringa oil. Over a 12-week period, 20 volunteers applied a cream containing 3% moringa oil daily. At the end of the study, the researchers observed a significant reduction in water loss, accompanied by a nearly 50% improvement in skin hydration levels. Thus, moringa oil emerges as an interesting ingredient for individuals with dry skin or those prone to skin tightness.

This vegetable oil can also help to strengthen the skin barrier and eliminate feelings of discomfort and the characteristic tightness of dry skin. The properties of the moringa oil are partly due to the omega-6 it contains, particularly linoleic acid. Indeed, this unsaturated fatty acid is involved in the synthesis of a certain category of ceramides, the acylceramides, lipids found in the stratum corneum. Linoleic acid and, by extension, moringa oil, thus contribute to the lipid organisation of the skin's outer layer and the maintenance of the skin barrier function.

The moringa oil is a friend to sensitive skin. Indeed, this vegetable oil possesses soothing and calming properties, derived from its biochemical composition rich in fatty acids and flavonoids, anti-inflammatory compounds. If we delve into the biochemical mechanisms involved, it is interesting to note that moringa oil can increase the production of resolvins and protectins, anti-inflammatory lipid mediators.

Furthermore, this vegetable oil has a regulatory effect on the NF-κB inflammatory signalling pathway. Other effects have been attributed to it, such as the inhibition of the production of interleukins-1β and 8 (IL-1β and IL-8), of TNF-α and of macrophage inflammatory proteins β (MIP-β), all of which are pro-inflammatory cytokines. In doing so, moringa oil can help to alleviate irritations, such as redness or itching among others.

It is also noteworthy that moringa oil possesses a broad-spectrum antibacterial activity. Several studies conducted in vitro on various microorganisms have shown that this botanical extract has a bactericidal effect on both Gram-positive bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus and Enterococcus faecalis, and Gram-negative bacteria, such as Klebsiella pneumoniae and Vibrio parahaemolyticus. Indeed, by destabilising bacterial membranes, moringa oil leads to the loss of vital intracellular components of microorganisms. A similar effect can be assumed on Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria involved in the development of acne.

Sun exposure, pollution, tobacco... These various sources of oxidative stress can impair skin uniformity and lead to pigmentation issues. To prevent them, it is recommended to regularly use antioxidants, such as moringa oil. Indeed, the vitamin E it contains allows it to neutralise free radicals before they disrupt the melanogenesis process. Thanks to its chemical structure, vitamin E can react with free radicals and provide them with the missing electron.

Furthermore, a study conducted in vitro has shown that moringa oil possesses anti-tyrosinase activity, likely due to its richness in quercetin. As a reminder, tyrosinase is an enzyme that catalyses the transformation of tyrosine into melanin. During the study, the median inhibitory concentration (IC50) of moringa oil was compared to that of kojic acid, a molecule known for its depigmenting effect. The IC50 is a data point frequently used to evaluate the inhibitory effect of a compound. According to the study, the anti-tyrosinase activity of moringa oil was about 1.5 times greater than that of kojic acid. Therefore, moringa oil could be a potential ally in brightening and evening out skin tone.

Having oily skin can be challenging to manage. Indeed, this skin type is characterised by a significant production of sebum by the sebaceous glands, resulting in shiny areas. Moreover, the accumulation of sebum on the skin's surface is conducive to the development of imperfections. It is possible that moringa oil, due to its polyphenol content, could limit sebum synthesis. Indeed, it inhibits 5α-reductase, the enzyme that allows the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). The moringa oil thus reduces the synthesis of DHT, a molecule that stimulates the activity of the sebaceous glands.

A clinical trial, conducted with 11 volunteers with oily skin over a 3-month period, examined the effect of applying a cream containing 3% moringa oil and compared it to the same cream without moringa oil. Unlike the control, the treatment containing moringa oil resulted in a 25% reduction in sebum production over 12 weeks. Although further research is still required to definitively state that moringa oil has a sebostatic effect, this initial study is promising.

Moringa oil finally possesses interesting healing properties to combat acne marks or minor cuts. In addition to providing the skin with good hydration, a key factor in ensuring its healing, it acts directly on the fibroblasts and the synthesis of granulation tissue. This is a transitional tissue that forms during the repair of inflammation. Moringa oil could also promote the process of angiogenesis, allowing the formation of new blood vessels from existing ones.

Further studies have also demonstrated that linoleic acid, found in moringa oil, can modulate the inflammatory response and stimulate the synthesis of several mediators such as thromboxanes and leukotrienes, which are highly active in dermo-epidermal synthesis and angiogenesis.

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