What is the phytochemical composition of moringa oil?

A small fraction (≈ 1%) of polyunsaturated fatty acids can be found in moringa oil, primarily in the form of linoleic acid. This omega-6, a natural constituent of cell membranes, contributes to the maintenance of the skin's impermeable barrier and to thelipid organisation of the stratum corneum. Indeed, it is essential for the synthesis of acylceramides, a specific type of ceramide resulting from an amidation reaction between a sphingoid base and linoleic acid. The nourishing virtues of moringa oil are partly due to the linoleic acid it contains.

Furthermore, linoleic acid is a precursor in the synthesis pathways of several molecules involved in neoangiogenesis and in dermal regeneration. It thus participates in the skin repair process and gives moringa oil its healing properties.

Well-known for its antioxidant properties, the vitamin E ensures the stability of moringa oil against oxidation and acts as a free radical scavenger. Thanks to the free hydroxyl function carried by its aromatic cycle, this molecule can capture these unstable species and stabilise their chemical structure by providing the missing electron. The anti-radical action of vitamin E not only protects moringa oil. It also helps to protect skin cells from oxidative stress, the primary factor in photoaging. Vitamin E is also useful in the hair care field as free radicals weaken hair fibres, hastening their fall and the appearance of white hair.

Moringa oil also contains carotenoids, and more specifically β-carotene, a plant pigment. Useful for prolonging your tan, β-carotene is also recognised for its antioxidant properties, which come from its chemical structure rich in double bonds. Similar to vitamin E, this pigment traps free radicals before they can attack the skin's components. β-carotene is also thought to have photoprotective properties. It's true that these have been demonstrated in several in vitro studies, but when applied topically, the concentration needed to obtain these benefits is much higher than that found in moringa oil.

In addition to vitamin E, the unsaponifiable part of moringa oil contains phytosterols. Among them, we notably find β-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and even avenasterol. These various plant sterols are primarily renowned for their hygroscopic properties, that is, their ability to capture and retain water in the skin cells. However, their cosmetic benefits do not stop there. The aromatic structure of phytosterols also gives them antioxidant power, useful for preventing damage caused by oxidative stress to cell membranes and for preserving the integrity of skin tissues. Moreover, various studies have highlighted that phytosterols could act on the growth factor of fibroblasts, responsible for the secretion of collagen and elastin, proteins essential for the formation of scar tissue.

The phytosterols in moringa oil also possess anti-inflammatory properties, demonstrated by their ability to inhibit the activation of NF-κB and activator protein 1 (AP-1), pro-inflammatory transcription factors. They also reduce the activity of collagenase, the enzyme responsible for the breakdown of peptide bonds in collagen and its degradation, and have bactericidal and bacteriostatic activity against certain microorganisms such as Enterobacter cloacae and Escherichia coli.