Vitamin E: What are the beneficial active ingredient combinations?

Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is well-known for its antioxidant properties. Indeed, through an electron donation, this molecule is capable of neutralising free radicals generated by UV rays, pollution or tobacco before they can damage cellular constituents and DNA. However, caution is needed: this photoprotection does not make vitamin C a sunscreen in itself. Vitamin E, primarily found in the horny layer of the skin, possesses similar properties. However, it acts differently: its chemical structure allows it to donate a hydrogen, which stabilises the free radicals. It then becomes a free radical itself but is relatively stable due to its aromatic character. However, vitamin E can no longer act.

Several studies have explored the potential synergy between Vitamin E and Vitamin C, and the results indicate that their combination canenhance antioxidant protection provided by these molecules. Indeed, Vitamin C, which has a lower redox potential than Vitamin E, can reduce the latter to regenerate its activity. It has also been shown that daily application for four days of a solution containing 15% Vitamin C and 1% Vitamin E can double the protection against actinic erythema compared to the application of either of these vitamins alone. However, it should be noted that the aforementioned study was conducted on pigs. It would be interesting if clinical trials with humans could confirm these results.

More commonly known as retinol, one of its derivatives, vitamin A is considered one of the most effective cosmetic actives for stimulating cell renewal and compensating for the natural degradation of collagen and elastin. It is therefore particularly used to formulate products aimed at combating skin ageing and loss of firmness. However, vitamin A has two major drawbacks: it can be drying and is therefore not recommended for sensitive skin, and it is subject to oxidation by sunlight. Thus, following sun exposure, vitamin A can transform into various reactive intermediates that can cause damage to the skin.

Some studies have shown that vitamin E, due to its antioxidant properties, can act as a cofactor to stabilise vitamin A and protect it from sunlight. However, research on this topic is still relatively scarce. More studies are still needed to fully understand and exploit the synergy between vitamin E and vitamin A.

Although it is incorrect to label vitamin E as a preservative, it nonetheless has a significant role in oily cosmetic formulations. Indeed, most vegetable oils are rich in omega-3, compounds whose chemical structure includes numerous double bonds. This characteristic makes them susceptible to oxidative degradation, particularly caused by atmospheric oxygen and UV rays. However, the oxidation of the constituents of vegetable oils has a negative impact on their cosmetic and organoleptic properties. When rancid, they can become harmful to the skin and comedogenic.

Thanks to its antioxidant properties, vitamin E can combat this phenomenon and help to maintain the quality of vegetable oils. It also acts in the same way with sebum by preventing the lipid peroxidation of squalene, one of its major compounds. In doing so, it inhibits its transformation into squalene peroxide, a comedogenic molecule. The vitamin E is thus an ally for oily skin.

Selenium is an essential trace element for the body. Mainly located in the kidneys and liver, studies have shown that it stimulates the activity of the immune system and protects cardiovascular function. It is also a good anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant. Predominantly found in raw vegetables, selenium can also be found in dietary supplements.

A study has examined the vitamin E/selenium association and its effects on acne. 29 patients suffering from this dermatosis were asked to take a tablet containing 0.2 mg of selenium and 10 mg of tocopherols twice a day for 12 weeks. At the end of the experiment, the scientists noted a significant reduction in the number and extent of acne lesions in the patients, particularly in those suffering from inflammatory acne. However, the chemical mechanisms explaining the synergy between vitamin E and selenium remain unknown.

A daily intake of selenium exceeding 900 μg can prove to be toxic and may cause gastrointestinal disorders, hair loss, and bad breath.

The coenzyme Q10, also known as ubiquinone, is a natural antioxidant found within the body. It is primarily located in the mitochondria where it activates energy production at the cellular level, but it is also found in sebum where it works in synergy with vitamin E to protect its constituents from oxidation. A study conducted with 100 volunteers showed that exposing sebum to UV radiation equivalent to 4 times the minimum erythemal dose (MED), which is the smallest amount of light that can cause sunburn, reduced the quantity of vitamin E by 84.2%, that of coenzyme Q10 by 70%, and that of squalene by only 13%. The same dose of UV applied in the absence of vitamin E and CoQ10 resulted in a 90% decrease in the quantity of squalene.

In addition to its protective effect on sebum, the combination of vitamin E/coenzyme Q10 has shown some potential to enhance the quality of life of individuals suffering from psoriasis. In one study, 58 patients were divided into two groups: the first received a corticosteroid-based treatment accompanied by daily supplementation of coenzyme Q10 (50 mg), vitamin E (50 mg) and selenium (48 μg), while the second group only received corticosteroids. After 35 days, a more significant improvement in the condition of the patients in the first group was observed. It appears that the combination of active ingredients tested could provide real assistance in the daily management of psoriasis symptoms.

Zinc is a crucial element for the proper functioning of the body and the maintenance of skin health. Naturally present in small amounts in the body, the intake of zinc is primarily ensured by diet and sometimes by taking dietary supplements. In addition to participating in the development of the body's tissues, this element is involved in the metabolism of certain proteins, lipids and carbohydrates. Zinc is also one of the most recommended actives for people with combination to oily skin and it can help combat acne problems. A lesser-known protein, lactoferrin is one of the components of the immune system and it has antimicrobial and antifungal activity.

In a recent study, 82 acne patients were administered capsules containing lactoferrin (100 mg), vitamin E (7.3 mg), and zinc (5 mg) twice daily. After 12 weeks, the researchers observed a significant improvement in the patients' skin condition, coupled with a decrease in the levels of sebum secreted. The supplementation of vitamin E, zinc, and lactoferrin proved to be relatively effective, although the patients' acne was not entirely eradicated.

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