The squalane is an active emollient known for its high affinity with the skin. It strengthens the hydrolipidic film and limits dehydration. When applied to hair, it is known for its thermoprotective properties, thus protecting the hair when using heat appliances, such as straighteners and hair dryers. This ingredient is still controversial today because even though it can be 100% plant-based, some manufacturers continue to use squalane derived from shark liver oil.
Squalane, of plant origin?
Published on October 4, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 7 min of reading
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What is squalane?
The squalane is derived from the hydrogenation of squalene, a natural component found in human sebum at an approximate percentage of 15%. Due to this characteristic, squalane is particularly well assimilated by the skin and hair fibres. It also exhibits total harmlessness and can be added to a cosmetic formula up to a maximum concentration of 100% without any contraindications.
In terms of benefits, squalane is a dry oil that repairs the hydrolipidic film allowing it to fully perform its role: limiting water loss and protecting the skin from external aggressions. Thus, squalane is primarily recognised for its moisturising properties ; it is recommended for dry skin as well as dry and split ends hair. Squalane also has excellent sensory properties. It is an emollient : it softens the touch of formulas and facilitates their spread.
Originally, squalane was extracted from the livers of sharks. This extraction process is increasingly regulated, but unfortunately, a large proportion of this active ingredient on the international market still comes from animal sources. At Typology, we only use plant-derived squalane. Find out about its extraction method below.
Where does the squalane present in our skincare products come from?
The plant-based squalane derived from olive oil began to be used as a replacement for animal-based squalane from the1980s.
Thevegetable squalaneis derived from squalene obtained from the residues of olive oil, sugarcane, rice, wheat, sugar beet, palm oil, or amaranth. In the case of olive oil squalane, the process involves recovering the unsaponifiable squalene using a distillation process aimed at removing the pulp from the olives that will provide the oil. The squalene is then hydrogenated into squalane. Hydrogenation involves combining a compound with a molecule of dihydrogen (H2). The entire process takes place without any solvents. Furthermore,olives are the preferred source, with a particularly low environmental impact within the framework of sustainable or organic farming, which preserves biodiversity and limits the use of irrigation.
Our nourishing serum contains 100% squalane derived from olive oil. It is particularly recommended for dry skin, for daily application in the morning and evening. Furthermore, we have developed several formulations enriched with olive squalane:
The regenerating facial scrub gently exfoliates and unclogs pores. This gel transforms into an exfoliating oil under the effect of massage, then into a milk upon contact with water. Containing essential oils, it should not be used by pregnant women.
Thehydrating botanical blend with papyrus is a night serum that helps to restore skin hydration and promote cellular regeneration.
Thetightening botanical blendwith nopal is a night serum that helps to firm the skin through the toning and regenerating actions of 7 botanical extracts, including immortelle essential oil.
The nourishing face cream formulated with hyaluronic acid and shea butter is a treatment enriched with lipid-replenishing and moisturising active ingredients to restore skin suppleness and reduce feelings of tightness.
Thetinted serumsare enriched with Vitamin C for a radiant complexion and aloe vera for skin hydration. They provide light coverage and even out the skin tone. Moreover, these 2-in-1 products exclude fragrance, nanoparticles, and silicones, which are often included in the formulation of traditional foundations and can promote the appearance of blemishes. Each tinted serum can match a wide spectrum of skin tones. The six shades of our serums have been developed according to the Fitzpatrick phototype scale.
Therelipidating shower oil Vitamin E+F 2.5% + Bitter Almond Extract is a treatmentthat provides antioxidant benefits, restoring suppleness to the epidermis and reducing feelings of tightness, while delicately scenting the skin with a light almond fragrance.
The nourishing body cream restores the lipid barrier, reduces feelings of tightness and protects the skin from external aggressions.
The Nutrition Shampoo Complex of 1% Biolipids + Camellia Oilrepairs and deeply nourishes the hair fibre, smooths and fills in the hair scales. This shampoo hydrates and soothes the scalp without weighing down the hair. Containing a very low concentration of Ho Wood essential oil, it has no contraindications and can be used by pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.
Note: Our two hair oils also contain plant-derived squalane, not from olives but from bagasse (thefibrous residue of thesugar cane). Thedry hair oil containing acai and hibiscus oil strengthens, nourishes andprotects the hair fibre without weighing down the hair. It restores shine and softness to the hair. Therich hair oil with pequi and argan oil nourishes and restructures the hair fibre to protect it from heat.
Sources:
Laure Ducos & al., Shark in our beauty creams, AN EXCLUSIVE STUDY BY BLOOM, (2015).
ARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).
