The benefits of PHAs on hair.

P.H.A.s are organic carboxylic acids. They belong to the family of hydroxy acids along with A.H.A.s (alpha-hydroxy acids) and B.H.A.s (beta-hydroxy acids).

Regarded as the new generation of A.H.A., they are renowned for theirkeratolytic effects,meaning they eliminate dead cells (a process known as desquamation), which boosts cellular renewal and restores radiance to the skin. Moreover, this desquamation allows for deep pore cleansing, thus limiting the appearance of imperfections.

They also possessmoisturising properties and humectants.This is due to the numerous hydroxyl functions they contain (OH-) at the level of their chemical structures. These capture water molecules and prevent transepidermal dehydration, thus strengthening the skin barrier.

Unlike A.H.A. and B.H.A., P.H.A. are suitable for all skin types, even those that are sensitive. Indeed, due to their high molecular weights, they remain on the surface of the epidermis. This explains their good skin tolerance compared to other acids which penetrate more deeply into the epidermis.

In cosmetics, various P.H.A.s are utilised:

• The gluconolactone : It exfoliates the skin while simultaneously strengthening the protective skin barrier. Due to its gentleness, it can be used daily. It also possesses antioxidant properties, therefore its use will protect the skin from external aggressions.

• Galactose : This active ingredient stimulates collagen production in addition to gently eliminating dead cells.

• Lactobionic Acid : This derivative of lactose has an antioxidant, soothing, and hydrating effect. It reduces wrinkles, fine lines, spots, and scars. Lactobionic acid also helps to protect the skin barrier.

Primarily used in skincare, P.H.A.s also have benefits for the hair.

When applied to the scalp, P.H.A.s have the same virtues as when applied to the skin. They remove dead cells and pollution particles from the scalp (a process known as desquamation). P.H.A.s thus prevent pore blockage, and reduce dandruff, excess sebum, and feelings of discomfort and itching. This desquamation stimulates cellular renewal, which helps to maintain the health of the scalp and hair. They also help to boost the scalp's natural hydration.

Our scalp scrub provides a double exfoliation of the scalp : chemically with the gluconolactone, and mechanically withjojoba beads andsilica powder. The scalp is healthy, rebalanced and rid of dead cells. As P.H.A.s are gentle, it will suit all scalp types. The mechanical exfoliation action combined withpeppermint essential oilhelps to accelerate hair growth by stimulating microcirculation. Moreover, theeucalyptus globulus essential oilit contains soothes scalp irritations and limits the appearance of dandruff. Finally, the P.H.A.s and aloe vera stimulate the scalp's natural hydration. This scrub should be usedonce to twice a weekon adry scalp before your shampoo. Despite the presence of essential oils, this product can be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women.

Please note : In the case of scalp conditions (such as seborrheic dermatitis, for example), it is advisable to consult a dermatologist who will prescribe a suitable treatment.

• KSENZENKO S. M. & al. The polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone provides protection against ultraviolet radiation in an in vitro model of skin photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery (2004).

• HEARING V. J. & et al. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity.Clinical,Cosmeticand InvestigationalDermatology (2010).