Smoking: How to regain a radiant complexion?

Tobacco consumption is one of the reasons why the skin might lose its glow. According to Douglas MODEL, it has been observed that smokers have a somewhat greyish skin compared to people who do not smoke. Indeed, the facial skin of smokers is often dull, giving the impression of advanced ageing. Several factors can be at the root of this appearance. Enrico Maria PROCACCINI and his colleagues found that smoking just one cigarette affects the skin's microcirculation by reducing blood flow. This could mean that the amount of oxygen carried in the blood will be reduced, which can jeopardise the proper functioning of cell renewal, and thus cause a build-up of dead cells on the skin. This is one of the reasons why a dull complexion is observed in tobacco consumers.

What are the mechanisms involved?

It is important to note that the gaseous phase of tobacco smoke contains carbon monoxide, which is absorbed into the bloodstream and binds to haemoglobin to form carboxyhaemoglobin. This compound, in turn, reduces the blood's ability to transport oxygen. Consequently, less oxygenated blood reaches the blood capillaries located near the skin's surface. These capillaries supply nutrients and oxygen to skin cells, which is essential for maintaining a healthy appearance.

When skin cells receive less oxygen, their metabolism slows down. This can lead to a decrease in the production of new skin cells and an accumulation of corneocytes on the skin's surface. However, these dead cells can clog pores, giving the skin a dull and tired appearance.

Finally, tobacco smoke is responsible for the production of free radicals : this is a factor of oxidative stress, just like UV rays and pollution. Free radicals compromise cellular functions, which can lead to a lack of blood oxygenation and the rest of the mechanisms previously mentioned.

The precise mechanisms are still somewhat unclear, and further studies should clarify these results.

To regain a radiant complexion, action must be taken on several levels so that skin damaged by tobacco can once again be luminous.

• Properly cleansing the skin. Skin cleansing is fundamental. It is primarily done in the evening. Indeed, the components of tobacco smoke (nicotine, free radicals, etc.) can deposit on the skin and alter your skin's brightness. Therefore, use gentle cleansers, without harsh ingredients, and then rinse with clear water.

• Regularly exfoliate your skin. Continue your routine by using a chemical exfoliant. This method uses an acid (AHA, BHA or PHA) to peel off dead cells from the epidermis, accumulated due to the slowdown in cell renewal caused by smoking. Their removal will result in a fresh complexion. Available over the counter, it is recommended to do it two to three times a week to achieve better results.

  You can also undergo peelings in dermatological centres, to be repeated every 21 days.

• Selecting active ingredients that target complexion restoration. The mint could be an interesting botanical ingredient to use in topical application in this context. Indeed, it is a significant source of menthol, an active ingredient that has been described as enhancing skin microcirculation. Lacy M. ALEXANDER and Daniel H. CRAIGHEAD found in a study that the topical application of menthol in gel form increased skin blood flow through vasodilation. Menthol induces a cooling sensation when applied locally. It is thought to interact with sensory nerves, possibly stabilising them to induce greater vasodilation and stimulate cell renewal. Dead cells will then be less present, so harnessing the benefits of menthol could help to reduce the dull complexion associated with smoking,

• Incorporate antioxidants into your routine. Active ingredients such as vitamin E and vitamin C are commonly found in cosmetics. Several studies have shown that these two vitamins have antioxidant properties when applied to the skin. Their aromatic cycle has a free hydroxyl function that captures free radicals and stabilises them by providing the missing electron. Therefore, applying vitamin E and C to the skin can help to brighten the complexion.

Let us remind you that the most effective way to regain a fresh complexion is toquit smoking.

• MODEL D. Smoker's face : an underrated clinical sign ? British Medical Journal (1985).

• PROCACCINI E. M. & al. The acute effect of smoking on cutaneous microcirculation blood flow in habitual smokers and nonsmokers. Dermatology (1998).

• CRAIGHEAD D. H. & al.Topical menthol increases cutaneous blood flow. Microvascular Research (2016).