Hyperpigmentation: lightening the skin with vitamin E?

Often extracted from vegetable oils, the vitamin E consists of eight lipid-soluble molecules, that is, soluble in fats: four tocopherols and four tocotrienols. For stability reasons, alpha-tocopherol is the vitamin E most widely used to formulate cosmetics and develop dietary supplements. Best known for its antioxidant properties, the benefits of this molecule go further. Indeed, several studies suggest that vitamin E may help to prevent and reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots. It could thus be used to even out the complexion and restore radiance.

How does vitamin E prevent brown spots?

Vitamin E primarily exerts a powerful antioxidant action, essential in the prevention of brown spots. Indeed, hyperpigmentation issues are strongly linked to oxidative stress. Under the influence of UV rays, pollution, tobacco or even through internal metabolic processes, the skin can produce free radicals in excess. These unstable molecules damage cell membranes and lipids, and can interfere with the process of melanogenesis, thereby promoting the formation of pigmented spots.

Vitamin E acts by trapping free radicals before they can alter cellular structures.

More specifically, it is the hydroxyl functional group on the aromatic ring of tocopherol that enables it to fulfil this role: it donates an electron to the free radical, instantly stabilising it. The vitamin E molecule then becomes a radical in its turn, but remains more stable thanks to its system of conjugated double bonds, which prevents the amplification of the oxidative chain reaction. By limiting this cascade, vitamin E contributes to limiting the risks of melanin overproduction, and thus to prevent the appearance of brown spots.

What is the effect of vitamin E on hyperpigmentation?

Moreover, various studies suggest that vitamin E could inhibit tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanogenesis. Indeed, tyrosinase catalyses the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. The inhibitory effect of vitamin E is thought to arise from its chemical structure, in particular its aromatic ring and free hydroxyl group. This arrangement would allow its hydroxyl group to bind to the enzyme’s active site, while its side chain could associate with the nearby hydrophobic protein pocket. This would block the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, and thus the synthesis of melanin.

A study in vitro conducted on B16 murine melanoma cells assessed the effect of δ-tocotrienol, a form of vitamin E, on melanin production. The researchers observed a significant decrease in melanin content within cells exposed to 50 and 100 µM δ-tocotrienol. This reduction in pigmentation was accompanied by decreased tyrosinase activity, evident at 10 µM and even more pronounced at higher doses. Analysis of messenger RNA levels also revealed reduced tyrosinase gene expression. Altogether, the results suggest that δ-tocotrienol promotes tyrosinase degradation, leading to decreased melanin production.

However, clinical evidence regarding the efficacy of vitamin E alone on brown spots remains limited and inconclusive.

To date, no study has shown that it can reduce pigmentation when used without other depigmenting agents. For example, one study assessed the efficacy of a lotion combining several ingredients, including vitamin E, kojic acid, arbutin, licorice extract and an extract of Rumex occidentalis, on pigmented spots. The results demonstrated a significant reduction in pigmentation, but this effect cannot be attributed to vitamin E alone, since the other actives have well‐documented depigmenting effects.

To date, vitamin E remains chiefly of interest for its antioxidant properties, which may help prevent pigmentary disorders.

• ONIKI T. & al. Novel vitamin E derivative with 4-substituted resorcinol moiety has both antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties. Lipids (2001).

• KATSAMBAS A. & al. Hyperpigmentation and melasma. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007).

• BARRADAS T. N. & al. Vitamin E and derivatives in skin health promotion. Interactions, Diseases and Health Aspects (2021).

• CHOUDHARY S. & al. Evaluating the use of an advance lotion for addressing skin hyperpigmentation. Indian Journal of Clinical and Experimental Dermatology (2024).