Skin ageing: can turmeric combat wrinkles?

Wrinkles are the most visible signs of skin ageing, particularly on the face. One of the causes of these furrows is the natural decrease in the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid over time. These molecules indeed provide the skin with flexibility, elasticity and hydration. The cell renewal also tends to decrease over the years. Other factors accelerate skin sagging. This is particularly the case with pollution , UV rays and tobacco which generate oxidative stress in the skin cells. This particularly damages the collagen and elastin fibres.

Recognisable by its yellow colour, the turmeric powder is a spice produced from the rhizome of the Curcuma longa, a herbaceous plant belonging to the Zingiberaceae family. This ingredient contains a multitude of compounds such as curcumin, its active principle, alpha-turmerone, campesterol, caryophyllene, as well as vitamins. In Asia, turmeric is used as a traditional medicinal plant due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is also incorporated into various cosmetic treatments, such as creams, gels, masks...

Turmeric is often incorporated into treatments targeting signs of ageing. However, it does not directly combat wrinkles but rather has a preventive action. Turmeric notably possesses antioxidant properties and a protective action on elastin, conferred by the curcumin it contains.

This molecule indeed protects cellular membranes against peroxidative damage caused by free radicals. Lipid peroxidation is a chain reaction leading to the damage of cellular membranes and the disruption of the hydrolipidic film. Curcumin inhibits this peroxidation thanks to the double bonds present in its chemical structure. These double bonds allow it to structurally rearrange and donate an electron to free radicals. This electron donation stabilises and neutralises these species before they can damage cellular constituents.

It has also been demonstrated that curcumin contributes toblocking elastase, an enzyme that catalyses the hydrolysis of elastin, in other words, its degradation. Curcumin works by stimulating the activity of α1-antitrypsin, a natural inhibitor of elastase transcription. Turmeric thus protects the skin from loss of elasticity and tone, which is correlated with the deterioration of elastin fibres.