What potential hazards does Centella asiatica pose?

Native to Asia and Oceania, the Centella asiatica is a creeping, semi-aquatic herbaceous plant of the Apiaceae family. Also known as tiger herb or Gotu kola, it has been recognised for over 2,000 years for its medicinal properties and its ability to accelerate wound healing. For example, Asian populations used it in poultices to treat wounds, particularly the cutaneous manifestations of leprosy. The benefits of the Centella asiatica arise from its composition, which is rich in natural bioactive substances such as saponins, triterpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acid, triterpenic steroids, amino acids and sugars...

In cosmetics, the use of this plant in powder or vegetable oil form dates back to the early 1970s. Today, it is possible to find the Centella asiatica in serums, creams or eye contour treatments, where it hydrates the skin, protects it from oxidative stress and inflammation, strengthens the skin barrier and slows down the appearance of signs of ageing.

Present in skin and hair care products under the INCI designation Centella Asiatica Extract, the maximum concentration of this ingredient is not regulated by the European Regulation on Cosmetic Products.

The Centella asiatica is a plant-based active ingredient well tolerated by all skin types, including the most sensitive.

Several studies and clinical tests conducted by the IARC, the results of which were published in the International Journal of Toxicology, have confirmed its safety when applied topically. For example, a patch test applied repeatedly demonstrated that an eye lotion containing 0.2% extract of Centella asiatica did not elicit either skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in the 54 subjects tested. Similarly, the assessment of the irritant and sensitising potential of a meristematic cell culture of Centella asiatica (20% in glycerol) performed on 108 participants revealed no reaction, even when the ingredient was applied at a high concentration. Finally, a mascara containing 0.5% madecassoside, one of the plant’s active compounds, induced neither skin irritation nor sensitisation in 109 subjects.

Moreover, there are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of Centella asiatica. Whether the ingredient is in powder form, vegetable oil or liquid extract, it may be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women as well as by young children, provided it remains within the scope of topical application. Indeed, it is important to note that the oral consumption of supplements containing Centella asiatica is not recommended during pregnancy, as its safety has not been established in this context.

Good practice : Even though the Centella asiatica is a highly well-tolerated ingredient, it is still advisable to conduct a tolerance test on first use of a new product. To do so, apply a small quantity of the formulation to the crook of the elbow or wrist and leave it in place for 24 to 48 hours. If you observe no signs of irritation (redness, swelling or tingling) either immediately after application or at the end of the 48 hours, this indicates that your skin tolerates the product well and you may proceed to use it.

• BRZEZINSKA M. & al. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology (2013).

• BRZEZINSKA M. & al. Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview. Phytotherapy Research (2013).

• LIU T. & al. Therapeutic potential of Centella asiatica and its triterpenes: A review. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2020).

• KURNIATI N. & al. Toxicity studies of Centella asiatica for drug development: Mini review. Biointerface Research in Applied Chemistry (2021).

• HELDRETH B. & al. Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2023).