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Rougeurs dues aux imperfections : quels ingrédients cosmétiques éviter ?

Redness due to blemishes: which cosmetic ingredients should be avoided?

The redness of blemishes is directly correlated to theinflammatory responsethey trigger. To avoid exacerbating the inflammation, what types of cosmetic ingredients should be avoided as much as possible? We are here to help you understand better.

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Inflammatory acne, the cause of redness due to blemishes.

Inflammatory acne is due tooverproduction of sebum correlated with the proliferation ofCutibacterium acnes.Cutibacterium acnes is a commensal bacterium of the skin microbiota. It contributes to maintaining the skin's good balance. However, under certain conditions, Cutibacterium acnes proliferates abnormally and becomes pathogenic. In defence, the skin cellssecreteinflammatory mediators.This triggers an inflammatory response on the skin's surface. Furthermore,Cutibacterium acnesis also responsible forhyperkeratinisationof the skin (thickening of the skin) which promotes the appearance of blemishes.

If the inflammation is superficial, papules (red raised bumps) can be observed, which may transform into pustules (pus-filled spots). In the case of deep inflammation, very painful nodules appear and can progress into abscesses or cysts.

  • The papules are inflammatory skin features characterised by a swelling of solid consistency, that is to say, they contain neither liquid nor pus, of small size (ranging from 1 to 4 mm) and of a colour from pink to red.

  • Thepustulesare small inflammatory lesions of the skin characterised by awell-defined and circumscribed elevation of the epidermis(diameter less than 5 mm) and topped in their centre by apurulent liquid of white colouroryellow.

There are certain compounds that should be avoided if one has inflamed red spots, as they will only exacerbate the inflammation. But what are they?

Ingredients to avoid when dealing with inflammatory acne.

Here are some categories of ingredients to avoid at all costs in your cosmetic products.

  • Some surfactants such as lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).

    These sulphated derivatives arepowerful detergentsbelonging to the category of surfactants or emulsifiers. They are found in household products for their excellentdegreasing powerbut also in hygiene products such as toothpastes, shampoos, shaving foams, soaps, etc... These foaming agents are now criticised for their irritating effects. Their detergent properties can be too strong on some sensitive skin to the point of drying them out. These compoundsdestroythe hydrolipidic film, which causes tightness after washing.They also alter the proteins of the membranes of skin and eye cells, which leads to irritations and redness. For this reason, shower gel and bath product manufacturers are using them less and less. It should be noted, the ethoxylated version SLES is less abrasive than SLS, but its manufacturing process is more polluting. Interestingly, SLS is still authorised in organic products, while SLES is not.

    Furthermore, SLS is identified as a pollutant to the environment, animals, aquatic habitats, and even plants.REACH (European Regulation to secure the manufacture and use of chemical substances) classifies this substance as ecotoxic. As a precautionary principle, Typology does not introduce sulfates into its cleansing care for the face and hair. Find here our blacklist of ingredients.

  • Alcohol and its derivatives (for instance, SD 40 alcohol, denatured alcohol, ethanol, and isopropyl alcohol).

    These ingredients can appear in various forms in a cosmetic product: Alcohol Denat, SD Alcohol 40-B,SD Alcohol 40-A,SD Alcohol 40,SD Alcohol 39-B,SD Alcohol 38-B,SD Alcohol 3-B,Polyvinyl Alcohol or even isopropyl alcohol.These compounds disrupt the skin's natural hydrolipidic film, leading to dryness, cracks, irritation, tightness, and vulnerability to external aggressions. Moreover, they can exacerbate certain skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea.

    Take note! Benzyl alcohol (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol), which can also be referred to as phenylmethyl alcohol, is an effective ingredient for inhibiting the proliferation of bacteria within the product. Introduced in small doses (< 1%), its drying effect is minimal. Furthermore, itis on the list of 26 allergens regulated by Europe and it is authorised in organic products. For this reason, it is present in several of our serums at a concentration of less than 1%.

  • Some potentially irritating preservatives (phenoxyethanol and parabens).

    To prevent the growth and colonisation of bacteria, synthetic preservatives are frequently added to cosmetic formulas. In the event of an allergic reaction to a cosmetic product, these are often the culprits.

    For instance, one might findphenoxyethanolin the composition. This compound is suspected ofcausing skin allergies such as redness, but also neurological disorders, as well as adverse effects on reproduction. Furthermore, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products attributes to this preservative side effects such asmoderate to severe eye irritation.

    Furthermore, certain treatments contain parabens due to their antimicrobial properties. However, these compounds are recognised endocrine disruptors (= which disrupt hormonal balance). Moreover, they are potential skin irritants that will only exacerbate your redness due to blemishes. Therefore, avoid choosing cosmetic products that contain, for example, Butylparaben or Propylparaben in their INCI list.

    It should be noted, manufacturers have replaced these preservatives with other ingredients such as MCIT (methylchloroisothiazolinone) or MIT (methylisothiazolinone). However, with continuous exposure to the same substances, the skin can sometimes develop sensitivities to these compounds as well...

  • Some essential oils.

    Despite their numerous benefits for the body, essential oils can be harsh on the skin. For topical application, these types of oils are generally not used in their pure form. Essential oils are most often diluted in a neutral vegetable oil, known as a carrier or vector oil, before being applied to the skin.

    There are numerous essential oils that contain molecules potentiallyallergenicorhyper-sensitisingsuch aslimonene, linalool,geraniol or even citrals.

    Even though the risk of allergy depends on one's allergic predisposition, it is essential to perform askin tolerance testin the crook of the elbow or wrist with the essential oil in question. Moreover, repeated and prolonged use of the same essential oil can promote an allergic reaction, so remember to take breaks during use.

    Here is a list of essential oils containing allergenic molecules in significant quantities: aneth, angelica, bergamot, bergaptene-free bergamot, cajeput, cinnamon (bark), lemon, clove, coriander seed, rose geranium, fragrant inula, bay laurel, lemongrass, green mandarin, lemon balm, lemon myrtle, sweet orange, compact oregano, Spanish oregano, palmarosa, grapefruit, turpentine, exotic verbena, fragrant verbena.


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