Misconceptions about hyperpigmentation.

False, emerging spots are not yet visible to the naked eye. However, they can be detected during a skin diagnosis carried out by a specialist. For this, they use a skin analyser that utilises two types of technology:

• the RBX technology which detects melanin and haemoglobin to identify lesions, such as veins, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and acne;

• the UV photography which allows the identification of sun damage such as sun spots.

They will evolve over the years and become increasingly noticeable if continued overexposure to the sun without protection persists. As a result, it is recommended to take all necessary precautions to protect your skin daily. Don't wait for spots to appear before you start applying sunscreen.

True. Hyperpigmentation is a pigmentation disorder, characterised by an overproduction of melanin by the melanocytes. It can manifest in various clinical forms, including the pregnancy mask (melasma) and age spots.

False! Melasma, often referred to as the 'mask of pregnancy', is particularly common in individuals with darker and olive skin tones, as they tend to produce more melanin. It is characterised by patches that can appear on the forehead, nose, around the upper lip, chin and cheekbones. It affects 70% of pregnant women, typically starting from the fourth month of pregnancy. Regardless of your skin type, it is important to protect yourself from the sun all year round and at any stage of life.

False! Melasma, also known as the mask of pregnancy, can occur in women who are not pregnant, as well as in men. It often forms following hormonal fluctuations during pregnancy, hence its nickname, or also when taking a medication that affects the hormonal system. Exposure to the sun or the use of oral contraceptives can also be the cause of melasma.

False! Hyperpigmentation will always occur in the event of overexposure to the sun without protection. It is therefore essential to protect your skin against UV rays throughout the year, both summer and winter. Protection involves applying sunscreen evenly, even if you do not plan to expose yourself directly to the sun. Moreover, certain forms of hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, have hormonal origins, which, even when treated, can reappear following hormonal relapses.

It's true! Freckles are caused by hyperpigmentation of the skin. However, the mechanism of their appearance involves a different type of melanin, known as pheomelanin. The freckles usually appear during the first three years of life, while sunspots intensify and become increasingly numerous as we age. Moreover, freckles have a genetic origin, which is not the case for sunspots.

False! The treatment of pigmentation spots is not solely carried out through invasive methods, such as peeling, laser or even medicinal treatments. Topical treatments have demonstrated their effectiveness in treating pigmentation spots. Certain active ingredients such as arbutin or tranexamic acid act on tyrosinase, the enzyme that activates the melanin production process, by inhibiting its activity.

Other active ingredients such as the niacinamide inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes, which is responsible for the pigmentation of the epidermis. There are now serums and creams with exfoliating actives (AHA or BHA) that help to reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots. These molecules eliminate keratinocytes by breaking ionic bonds, thus destabilising the horny layer and causing its gradual detachment.

True and false. Pigment spots are one of the consequences of overexposure to the sun, thus they appear with age. They are referred to as "age spots". However, other types of pigment spots are not age-related, such as melasma.

True. A study on melanocytes exposed to artificial blue light has shown a significant darkening of extracellular and intracellular melanin pigments. However, further studies will be conducted to clearly explain the effect of blue light on hyperpigmentation.

• HANIF N. & al. Plant-based skin lightening agents: A review. The Journal of Phytopharmacology (2020).

• LORRIO S. & al. Protective Effect of the Aqueous Extract of Deschampsia antarctica (EDAFENCE®) on Skin Cells

  against Blue Light Emitted from Digital Devices. international Journal of Molecular Sciences (2020).

• RIGOPOULOS D. & al. Hyperpigmentation and melasma. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007).