Tinted oil, gloss, ink...: which one should you choose for your lips?

The first notable difference between tinted lip oils, lip glosses and lip stains lies in their texture and the sensation they provide. The tinted lip oils offer an extremely light and comfortable sensation, almost imperceptible on the lips. These products provide a subtly glossy finish that remains natural.

The gloss, for its part, is distinguished by its thicker, enveloping texture. It delivers intense shine but can sometimes feel tacky, especially when applied in a generous layer. This sensation is not necessarily unpleasant and contributes to the “volume” effect that many seek with glosses.

Finally, lip stains are characterised by their fluid and pigmented texture. Unlike lip glosses, they dry quickly and adhere to the lip surface, creating a matte or satin finish depending on the formulation. The sensation is lighter than that of a gloss but less nourishing than that of tinted oils, and it can be useful to apply a lip balm as a supplement to prevent dryness, particularly in winter.

Tinted oil delivers a nourishing sensory profile, in contrast to lip stain, whilst lip gloss exhibits a comparatively adhesive texture.

Tinted oils, glosses and lip stains do not produce the same finish. Tinted oils provide a subtle, buildable colour. They impart a fine veil of pigment, making them ideal for a natural effect or for enhancing the lips’ natural hue without creating too stark a contrast.

Gloss, for its part, places particular emphasis on brilliance. The colour is often more intense than that of a tinted oil, yet it remains translucent and can be modulated according to the number of layers applied. Glosses are the allies of individuals seeking a highly luminous finish, capable of capturing light and visually enhancing lip volume.

Liquid lip inks, by contrast, have a high pigment concentration. They provide an intense, uniform finish from the first application and guarantee long-lasting wear. Colours can be matte or satin, depending on the formulation.

Lip ink offers the most intense finish, followed by gloss, while the finish of lip oil is more natural.

Staying power is a crucial criterion when selecting a lip product. Tinted oils, glosses and lip stains differ significantly in this respect. In the case of tinted oils, they have a lightweight texture and finish, yet their longevity remains limited: the colour fades during meals or lip movements, necessitating frequent touch-ups. Their strength therefore lies less in durability and more in the comfort they provide to the lips.

The gloss, on the other hand, provides an intermediate level of wear. Its thick texture adheres well to the lip surface, but its glossy finish is susceptible to friction or moisture. Upon contact with a glass or a mask, the gloss can transfer easily. Nevertheless, some recent formulations incorporate film-forming polymers that enhance adhesion and prolong shine. Thus, gloss emerges as an appealing option for a momentary luminous effect, but not for long-lasting wear.

In contrast, lip inks are distinguished by their exceptional resistance. Thanks to their aqueous or semi-liquid texture, they slightly penetrate the stratum corneum of the lips and deposit an almost indelible pigment. This mechanism, explained by the volatile solvents in their composition, confers upon lip inks a wear that can last several hours, or even all day, without transfer or smudging. However, this adhesion is the source of the drying sensation experienced by some individuals after using a lip ink.

In terms of wear resistance, lip stain exhibits the best performance, followed by lip gloss and tinted oil.

Application comfort and the hydration provided are crucial factors when selecting a product for the lips, an inherently fragile area that is almost devoid of sebaceous glands, the organs responsible for synthesising sebum. Tinted oils are unrivalled in this respect. Their oily base, often enriched with plant oils, reinforces the hydrolipidic film and limits transepidermal water loss. Moreover, lip oils have emollient and nourishing properties that help prevent minor chapping.

Gloss, on the other hand, offers a more superficial hydration. Its viscous texture creates an occlusive film that temporarily retains moisture, but this effect is less pronounced than that of tinted oils. Some formulations attempt to address this by incorporating humectants such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, which keep the lips more supple. Nevertheless, gloss remains above all a shine product and belongs more to the realm of make-up than of skin care.

As for lip stains, they provide the least comfort, owing to their low lipid content. The volatile solvents they contain can exacerbate dehydration and cause a sensation of tightness, particularly on fragile lips. That is why it is recommended to apply a moisturising balm before or after a lip stain, in order to preserve the skin barrier and maintain tissue elasticity.

Tinted oils and, to a lesser extent, glosses lie midway between make-up and skincare, while lip stains offer neither hydration nor comfort to the lips.

Even though they are sometimes confused, tinted oils, glosses and lip inks are different products that are not formulated in the same way. The tinted oils are based on a base of plant-derived or synthetic lipids with good skin affinity and capable of restoring the lips' hydrolipidic film. They often contain oils such as jojoba, castor or sweet almond, rich in unsaturated fatty acids, as well as lightweight esters that give a non-greasy finish. Tinted oils also contain dispersed pigments responsible for the colour effect. Finally, tinted lip oils include film-forming agents, which aid product spreadability and its ability to retain moisture in the skin. These ingredients also help to thicken the formula of tinted oils, creating a smooth, silky texture that glides easily over the lips.

Glosses are formulated around a gelled or polymeric phase. Their viscous texture often derives from silicone- or cellulose-based polymers that trap pigments and pearlescent particles while forming a glossy film on the lip surface. Mineral or plant oils are present in varying amounts to enhance the product’s slip properties. Some “treatment” glosses are enriched with humectants to improve application comfort. However, the majority remain designed for a luminous finish rather than reparative action.

Finally, lip stains rely on an aqueous or hydroalcoholic phase in which the pigments are dispersed with the aid of surfactants. Their lightness stems from the presence of volatile solvents, which evaporate rapidly to leave on the lips a fine coloured layer. It is this specific formulation, composed of water-soluble pigments, film-forming polymers and one or more volatile solvents, that is responsible for the long-lasting wear of lip stains, but also for their slightly drying effect on the lips, although some recent products tend to incorporate light moisturising agents, such as pentylene glycol or lactic acid derivatives.

The composition of each product determines its texture, its wear and its benefits: tinted oils focus on nourishment, glosses on shine, and lip inks on the long-lasting fixation of pigments.

The choice between a tinted oil, a gloss or a lip stain depends above all on your priorities in terms of comfort, wear and finish. If your lips are often dry, we recommend favouring tinted oils, which nourish while imparting a subtle wash of colour. Their natural finish is also ideal for those seeking a light make-up look. Gloss, on the other hand, is suited to anyone wanting an immediate plumping effect and intense shine. However, it may require touch-ups throughout the day. Finally, lip stains are noteworthy for their exceptional longevity: they are ideal for anyone seeking a precise, transfer-proof result over the course of the day.

Alternating cosmetic products can also be an effective solution: a tinted oil during the day to hydrate and protect, a gloss for special occasions, and a lip stain for days or evenings when wear time is the priority. Summary table of the differences between tinted oils, glosses and lip stains.

At Typology, we offer you an emollient lip oil available in six shades. Made from 98% naturally derived ingredients, it is vegan and formulated without nanoparticles, mineral oils or silicones. This lip oil provides light coverage with a glossy, non-sticky finish. It contains several nourishing ingredients that prevent lip dehydration while adding colour. Notably, the formula includes plum oil, jojoba oil and squalane in its formulation, together with vitamin E, whose potent antioxidant properties protect the lips from oxidative stress.