Vitamin E: what are its benefits for the skin?

Vitamin E, more specifically its most active form, α-tocopherol, is regarded as the major liposoluble antioxidant in the body. It protects cell membranes rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are particularly susceptible to oxidation. When a free radical attacks a lipid, it triggers a chain reaction known as lipid peroxidation, leading to the formation of new radicals and by-products that compromise membrane structure and function, thereby accelerating skin ageing. α-Tocopherol can thwart this process: by donating a hydrogen atom, it neutralises peroxyl radicals (LOO•) before they can propagate the reaction. The resulting tocopheryl radical is stable enough not to reinitiate the oxidative cycle, thus halting the cascade of damage.

This is why vitamin E is regarded as a major defence against oxidative stress, a key factor in the loss of skin firmness and radiance.

By neutralising free radicals, vitamin E thus limits the structural damage that gradually affects the skin with age. Indeed, chronic oxidative stress contributes to the degradation of the collagen and elastin, the two proteins of the dermal extracellular matrix responsible for the skin’s suppleness and elasticity. Free radical formation also disrupts the synthesis of new fibres and weakens the extracellular matrix as a whole, favouring the appearance of wrinkles. By strengthening the skin’s natural antioxidant defences, vitamin E therefore helps preserve its elasticity and delay the onset of ageing signs.

Vitamin E is naturally present in the sebum and protects its components from oxidation. It particularly preserves squalene, one of the main sebaceous lipids, from its conversion into squalene peroxide, an oxidised derivative known to be comedogenic. This oxidation, promoted by exposure to UV rays and pollutants, impairs the quality of the hydrolipidic film, making it thicker, and contributes to comedo formation. By maintaining the stability of squalene and other lipid components, vitamin E helps preserve sebaceous balance, thereby reducing the risk of dysseborrhoea, an imbalance characterised by excess sebum, oxidation and inflammation.

This protective role explains why vitamin E is sometimes regarded as a biomarker of acne severity, an inflammatory skin disease intimately linked to the amount and quality of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands. Several studies have shown that people suffering from acne have, on average, lower plasma concentrations of vitamin E than individuals without acne. The study conducted by KALKAN and his team illustrates this trend, as shown in the table below.

Beyond its role as an antioxidant, vitamin E also acts as a modulator of the inflammatory response. It does so in particular by inhibiting certain intracellular signalling factors, such as NF-κB and JAK–STAT6, which regulate the expression of numerous pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines. By restraining their activation, vitamin E reduces the production of mediators responsible for skin redness, itching or swelling. Tocopherols also inhibit the production of prostaglandin E2 by cyclooxygenase-2, as well as that of leukotrienes via the arachidonate 5-lipoxygenase, two pathways particularly known to amplify the allergic reactions.

Vitamin E thus helps to attenuate inflammatory processes and maintain a favourable balance conducive to skin comfort.

An investigation conducted on 24 mice assessed the anti-inflammatory effect of a topical microemulsion enriched with vitamin E (0.1%) and vitamin A (0.05%). Inflammation was induced by TPA (12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate), which causes pronounced oedema and hyperkeratosis. Six groups were formed: untreated control without TPA or treatment (A), TPA alone (B), microemulsion without vitamins (C), microemulsion with vitamin E (D), microemulsion with vitamin A (E), and microemulsion with both vitamins A and E (F). The results showed that mice treated with the microemulsion containing vitamin E exhibited a marked reduction in erythema and histological lesions compared with the TPA-only and vitamin-free microemulsion groups. The combination of vitamins A and E produced an even greater effect: epidermal thickness approached that of control mice, and levels of TNF-α, a pro-inflammatory cytokine, were significantly reduced.

The hyperpigmentation presents as the appearance of brown spots, often located on the face, hands or areas frequently exposed to sunlight. It results from an excessive production of melanin by melanocytes, which can be triggered by UV rays, inflammation or hormonal imbalances. Although these pigmented spots are not harmful in themselves, they are often perceived as a sign of skin ageing and disrupt the uniformity of the complexion, potentially causing self-consciousness.

To date, no clinical trial in humans has demonstrated that vitamin E alone exerts a depigmenting effect.

However, certain studies in vitro suggest a promising potential. For example, work carried out on B16 melanoma cells has shown that δ-tocotrienol, an isoform of the vitamin E, can significantly inhibit melanin formation and free-radical production at a concentration of 20 μM. This treatment also inhibited the expression of proteins essential for proper melanogenesis, such as MC1R, MITF, TYRP-1 and TYRP-2, via activation of the MAPK/ERK pathway. Inhibition of this pathway abolished the effect of δ-tocotrienol, highlighting its role in regulating melanin production. These findings suggest that, although clinical evidence is still lacking, certain vitamin E isoforms may have a lightening and depigmenting effect that merits further scientific investigation.

The vitamin E plays an important role in blood circulation thanks to several complementary mechanisms. It exhibits vasodilatory properties by promoting the production of nitric oxide (NO) by endothelial cells, which relaxes vascular smooth muscle and enhances blood perfusion. Tocopherols also inhibit the oxidation of LDL cholesterol, limiting the formation of atheromatous plaques responsible for atherosclerosis. Furthermore, vitamin E improves the membrane fluidity of red blood cells, facilitating their passage through capillaries, and reduces the release of thromboxane A2 (TXA2) by platelets, thereby decreasing blood clot formation and ensuring better overall blood fluidity. These effects contribute to cardiovascular protection and the maintenance of effective blood circulation.

This influence of vitamin E on blood circulation could have beneficial effects on the skin. By enhancing blood flow and microcirculation, it may limit the appearance of vascular dark circles, arising from fluid accumulation around the eye contours. Similarly, smoother circulation in the extremities favours venous return and can reduce the sensation of heavy legs.

However, it is important to point out that, to date, the effects of vitamin E on blood circulation have only been demonstrated following oral intake. Further clinical trials are necessary to confirm these benefits when applied topically.

• PANGANAMALA R. V. & al. Modulation of platelet thromboxane A2 and arterial prostacyclin by dietary vitamin E. Prostaglandins (1981).

• NIKBIN MEYDANI S. & al. Vitamin E increases production of vasodilator prostanoids in human aortic endothelial cells through opposing effects on cyclooxygenase-2 and phospholipase A2. The Journal of Nutrition (2005).

• JIALAL I. & al. Vitamin E, oxydative stress and inflammation. Annual review of nutrition (2005).

• KALKAN G. & al. Evaluation of serum vitamins A and E and zinc levels according to the severity of acne vulgaris. Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology (2013).

• LIN C. C. & al. Anti-melanogenic effects of δ-tocotrienol are associated with tyrosinase-related proteins and MAPK signaling pathway in B16 melanoma cells. Phytomedicine (2014).

• HAJIBABAEI K. Antioxidant properties of vitamin E. Annals of Research in Antioxidants (2016).

• BENTLEY M. V. & al. Microemulsion co-delivering vitamin A and vitamin E as a new platform for topical treatment of acute skin inflammation. Materials Science and Engineering (2020).

• BARRADAS T. N. & al. Vitamin E and derivatives in skin health promotion. Interactions, Diseases and Health Aspects (2021).

• PERUGINI P. & al. Squalene peroxidation and biophysical parameters in acne-prone skin: A pilot “in vivo” study. Pharmaceuticals (2023).