Lemon water: its benefits for the skin.

Grown throughout the Mediterranean basin, the lemon tree is a shrubby plant from the Rutaceae family. Originating from the Middle East, its introduction to the West dates back to the 4th century BC, under the influence of Alexander the Great. During antiquity, the Greeks and Romans appreciated this fruit for its culinary properties and its anti-nausea action. Its use was then expanded and the lemon was quickly employed to alleviate minor wounds and pains.

Also known as lemon hydrosol, lemon water is obtained through steam distillation. It presents itself as a colourless liquid, sometimes slightly opalescent, and has a characteristic fresh and lemony scent. Although the lemon hydrosol is only weakly charged with essential oil, it remains a valuable commodity that can be incorporated into skincare treatments.

Please note : one should not confuse lemon juice and lemon hydrosol. The former is highly acidic and extremely photosensitising, due to its high concentration of furocoumarins. On the other hand, lemon water is a gentle treatment suitable even for pregnant or breastfeeding women and young children.

Thelemon hydrosol possesses proven antibacterial properties. Indeed, it contains several active ingredients capable of combating the growth of certain bacteria. It is particularly rich in limonene, a compound capable of causing the rupture of the membrane of Gram-positive bacteria , such as Cutibacterium acnes, which is responsible for acne, thereby compromising their cellular integrity.

Lemon hydrosol also contains alpha- and beta-pinenes, molecules that have a bacteriostatic effect. They inhibit the multiplication of bacteria without killing them. Finally, linalool is found in lemon water, a compound that inhibits the ability of bacteria to communicate with each other via molecular mediators (quorum sensing). Therefore, lemon hydrosol can be used as an antiseptic in case of injury to prevent bacterial contamination.

Lemon hydrosol also has an anti-inflammatory action. The linalool in its composition enables it to promote the synthesis of HSP70 proteins (Heat Shock Protein). These proteins ensure the correct conformation of proteins found in the body's cells and help them to protect themselves from external stresses (heat, heavy metals...), which could potentially cause inflammatory phenomena.

Furthermore, lemon water contains geranial. A study has shown that this molecule inhibits the activity of NLRP3, a complex inflammasome that triggers an inflammatory signalling pathway. It notably increases the synthesis of interleukin-1 (IL-1) and interleukin-4 (IL-4), which are pro-inflammatory cytokines. Therefore, the application of lemon hydrosol is beneficial for easing pain and aiding certain wounds to heal.

Lemon water is often attributed with several beneficial properties for those with oily skin. Some sources indeed claim that this ingredient possesses sebum-regulating properties , and that it could help to tighten pores and refine skin texture. Furthermore, lemon hydrosol is said to have a purifying action on skin imperfections. However, it is important to note that to date, no scientific study has demonstrated that the application of lemon hydrosol has visible beneficial effects on oily skin.

While the brightening and illuminating action of lemon water has not been directly evidenced in scientific studies, it is true that this ingredient contains vitamin C, a compound whose depigmenting effect has been demonstrated. Vitamin C is capable of preventing melanogenesis by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that facilitates the conversion of the amino acid tyrosine into melanin. The latter is a skin pigment responsible for its colouration. The amount of vitamin C in pure lemon hydrosol is nevertheless quite low and it may be necessary to combine it with a treatment containing more vitamin C to achieve results.

Typology has incorporated thelemon hydrosol (INCI name: Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Water) into two treatments, where it works in synergy with several active ingredients.

• The hyperpigmentation serum is a treatment that contains lemon hydrosol and is also concentrated in alpha-arbutin, a brightening active ingredient. Daily application of this serum helps to reduce the appearance of brown spots and delay their onset.

• The antioxidant face cream contains lemon extract combined with a high percentage of vitamin C (5%) (INCI name: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), and helps to combat oxidation phenomena and even out the complexion.

• MEDEIROS I. & al. Inhibitory effect of β-pinene, α-pinene and eugenol on the growth of potential infectious endocarditis causing Gram-positive bacteria. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (2007).

• FEILY A. & al. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014).

• LUIZ R. & al. Citral prevents UVB-induced skin carcinogenesis in hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology (2019).

• LAWRENCE R. & al. Strategic approach of multifaceted antibacterial mechanism of limonene traced in Escherichia coli. Scientific Reports (2021).