Is pequi oil comedogenic?

Cosmetic ingredients with an oily texture such as vegetable oils are likely to promote the occurrence of skin imperfections. Indeed, by forming a film on the skin's surface, this type of compound can hinder the sebum's evacuation through the pores and disrupt the natural desquamation process, resulting in the formation of comedones. Ingredients with such occlusive potential are termed comedogenic. The comedogenicity of oils is evaluated on a scale ranging from 0 to 5, defining a comedogenicity index. The higher the index, the greater the comedogenic risk. Generally, it is recommended for people with oily skin not to use oil with a comedogenicity index higher than 2.

Current scientific literature does not mention the comedogenicity index of the piqui oil.

Although there are no numerical data on the comedogenicity of piqui oil, certain factors allow us to form an idea about its occlusive potential:

• The texture of pequi oil.

  The organoleptic properties of a vegetable oil provide clues about its potential comedogenicity. In the case of piqui oil, it has a rather dry touch, suggesting that it will not clog the skin's pores. Indeed, it exhibits a good biocompatibility, allowing it to be easily assimilated by the superficial layers of the skin. This characteristic of the piqui oil directly stems from its biochemical composition. Indeed, this vegetable oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids. Thanks to their double bonds, these molecules have greater flexibility than saturated fatty acids, which generally translates into better fluidity of the oil.

  However, it is important to add a caveat to this point. Indeed, the vast majority of unsaturated fatty acids in piqui oil are monounsaturated fatty acids, which are less flexible than polyunsaturated fatty acids. Therefore, even though the feel of piqui oil is relatively dry, this vegetable oil is not as fluid as argan oil or jojoba oil, which are known for their high compatibility with oily skin.

• The sensitivity of piqui oil to oxidation.

  Air oxygen, light, heat, or even interactions with the container are all potential oxidation factors. Indeed, when a vegetable oil oxidises, its texture changes and its quality deteriorates. It often becomes more viscous and thus more likely to clog pores: its comedogenicity increases. The oxidation reactions that can affect vegetable oils most often occur between an oxidant and a double bond carried by an unsaturated fatty acid.

  Pequi oil has a high content of monounsaturated fatty acids, molecules that are prone to oxidation. However, it is relatively stable against oxidation. This apparent contradiction can be explained by the richness of pequi oil in antioxidants. Indeed, the carotenoids and vitamins A, C and E it contains protect its fatty acids from oxidative phenomena, also facilitating its preservation.

Even though caution is necessary, these various elements seem to suggest that piqui oil is minimally comedogenic.

Tip : Even if a vegetable oil is stable to oxidation, it is normal for its quality to decrease and its texture to change over time. To slow down this process as much as possible and prevent your piqui oil from becoming comedogenic, it is recommended to store it away from light and heat in a tightly sealed bottle.

• STAVRIANEAS N. G. & co. Comedogenicity of Cosmetics: A Review. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (1996).

• DINARDO J. & al. A reassessment of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).

• MAXIEL GUEDES A. M. & co. Pequi: a Brazilian fruit with potential applications in the fat industry. OCL (2017).