Is moringa oil considered one of the so-called comedogenic oils?

Even though it has certain limitations, the concept of comedogenicity of vegetable oils is interesting for studying the compatibility of ingredients and skin types. Indeed, an oil is said to be comedogenic when it has the potential to clog skin pores, thereby promoting the appearance of comedones. The occlusive potential of vegetable oils is evaluated on a scale ranging from 0 to 5, defining a comedogenicity index. According to this classification, an ingredient with an index of 0 is non-comedogenic. From 1 to 2, it is considered slightly comedogenic. An index above 3 indicates that the vegetable oil is comedogenic. It is generally advised for people with oily or acne-prone skin to avoid applying an oil with an index of 3 or higher. Several criteria are taken into account to evaluate the comedogenicity of an ingredient.

• Sensitivity to Oxidation : The oxygen in the air, light, heat, and interactions with the container are all potential factors of oxidation. When a vegetable oil oxidises, its texture changes and its quality deteriorates. It often becomes more viscous and therefore more likely to clog pores: its comedogenicity increases. Vegetable oils are often defined by their oxidative potential, indicating how sensitive they are to oxidation.

  What about moringa oil?

  The moringa oil has good oxidation stability, which can be particularly explained by its composition. Indeed, it is very low in polyunsaturated fatty acids (≈ 1%), that is to say, presenting several double bonds in their chemical structure. However, these fatty acids are very sensitive to oxidation, which can occur via a reaction between an oxidant and a double bond. It is rather saturated fatty acids, without double bonds, and monounsaturated ones, less sensitive to oxidation because they only have one double bond, that are found in moringa oil. Moreover, this ingredient is rich in vitamin E and beta-carotene, protective antioxidants.

• The Texture : A thick oil is not easily absorbed by the epidermis and runs the risk of clogging the pores. The texture of a vegetable oil is once again influenced by its composition. Generally, oils rich in omega-3 and omega-6 have a drier touch than those predominantly containing omega-9. This characteristic results from their chemical structure. The numerous double bonds found in omega-3 and 6 make these molecules more flexible and less dense. On the contrary, omega-9s are mono-unsaturated, thus less flexible.

  What about moringa oil?

  Moringa oil is predominantly composed of oleic acid (≈ 70%), an omega-9. Therefore, its rate of penetration into the skin is relatively limited. Themoringa oil tends to stay more on the skin's surface where it strengthens the hydrolipidic film and limits water loss. The oleic acid it contains is indeed found in the sebum of the hydrolipidic film.

Moringa oil is generally classified as being minimally comedogenic. Its comedogenicity index is 2.

The detailed criteria mentioned above are inherent to each vegetable oil and cannot be altered. However, there are other factors, this time adjustable, that can slightly fluctuate the comedogenic potential of moringa oil.

• Freshness : Over time, even when a vegetable oil is resistant to oxidation, it is normal for its quality to decline and its texture to change. That's why it is recommended to use the moringa oil within six months of opening it. Furthermore, to optimise its preservation, we advise you to keep it away from light and heat in a tightly sealed bottle.

• The extraction process : A vegetable oil extracted by cold pressing retains all its active substances, such as its fatty acids and vitamins. Indeed, this process requires neither chemical treatment nor heat, elements that could degrade the fatty acids of the oil and lead to the formation of new compounds, not necessarily beneficial for the skin. To minimise the comedogenicity of the moringa oil, we advise you to opt for a virgin oil, that is, obtained by cold pressing.

• STAVRIANEAS N. G. & co. Comedogenicity of Cosmetics: A Review. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (1996).

• DINARDO J. & al. A reassessment of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).

• UL HAQ I. & al. Moringa oleifera: a natural gift-A review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2010).

• JUNIOR D. & al. Moringa oleifera seed oil: A review. Journal of Research in Agriculture and Animal Science (2021).