Is hyaluronic acid suitable for sensitive skin?

The sensitive skin is a condition that can affect all skin types, although it is more commonly found in dry skin. According to recent studies, the rate of corneocytes is reduced in people with sensitive skin. These cells, which make up the horny layer, play an essential protective role and prevent the entry of irritating agents into the deeper layers of the skin. Furthermore, it is observed that the synthesis of filaggrin, a protein of the epithelium involved in maintaining the skin barrier, is weaker in people with sensitive skin. Thus, sensitive skin is more permeable to various environmental factors that can attack it, which explains the frequent irritations and redness it suffers.

Because they are hyper-reactive, sensitive skin types must pay great attention to the products they use. When it comes to hyaluronic acid, it is not a substance that is contraindicated for sensitive skin. Indeed, this biocompatible molecule, naturally present in the dermis and epidermis, is very well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. This is true for both high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Even though the small size of the latter allows it to penetrate deeply into the epidermis, it does not promote irritation phenomena. A recent study conducted using patch-tests with 15 volunteers examined various serums containing 0.5, 1 and 2% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (400 kDa). Their application on the participants' forearms caused no redness or side effects after 30 minutes, 72 hours, 96 hours and 1 week.

Furthermore, another study involving 1630 individuals examined the effects of a serum containing 0.4% hyaluronic acid. Among the many participants, 1094 (67.7%) had sensitive skin. After 4 weeks of daily use, no adverse effects were observed, which seems to indicate good tolerability of hyaluronic acid by sensitive skin. Moreover, all participants noticed an overall improvement in the condition of their skin after the study. The hyaluronic acid indeed helped to increase skin hydration in 74.1% of people and soothe the skin of 93% of them.

Key Takeaway : Far from being contraindicated for people with sensitive skin, hyaluronic acid is not only well tolerated by this group but can also provide them with numerous benefits. Sensitive skin is indeed often prone to skin dryness, a factor on which hyaluronic acid can act. By minimising water loss, this active ingredient has a protective action and strengthens the skin barrier.

• MAIBACH H. & al. Sensitive skin: an overview. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012).

• STANDER S. & et al. Sensitive skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2016).

• ARAVIISKAIA E. & al. Vichy mineralising water with hyaluronic acid proves to be effective and well-tolerated as a supplementary treatment for various skin conditions and post-aesthetic procedures. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).

• TORT S. & KARAKUCUK A. Serum Type Hyaluronic Acid Formulations: In vitro Characterisation and Patch Test Study. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (2021).