Immortelle essential oil to prevent and reduce under-eye bags?

Corresponding to a swelling of the lower eyelids, eye bags appear as a result of an accumulation of water (aqueous bags) or fat (adipose bags). The former are the result of poor lymphatic and blood circulation. They primarily form when we are in a lying down position, a state that promotes the stagnation of blood and lymph. Adipose bags, on the other hand, are encouraged by gravity and the passage of time. Indeed, as we age, the production of collagen and elastin, supportive protein fibres, decreases. We then observe a downward shift of fatty tissues, leading to adipose bags.

Whether they are aqueous or adipose, eye bags can be a source of insecurity. Few cosmetic ingredients can truly act on eye bags. According to a recent study, essential oil of immortelle, or Italian helichrysum essential oil, is one of them. In this study, 43 women with an average age of 55 and presenting with under-eye bags applied an eye contour cream twice a day. Half of the participants received a treatment with 3% immortelle essential oil, while the other half received a placebo. After 28 days, the women who benefited from the cream containing immortelle essential oil saw their under-eye bags decrease by 25%, while no significant difference was observed in the other volunteers.

This clinical trial thus appears to suggest that the use of Italian Helichrysum essential oil is beneficial for under-eye bags. However, given the relatively small number of participants in the study, it would be beneficial for more clinical trials to be conducted in the future to confirm the effect of the everlasting essential oil against bags. Moreover, it is unfortunate that the aforementioned study does not specify the type of bags presented by the volunteers. Without this information, it is difficult to determine whether the potential efficacy of the everlasting essential oil extends to both watery and fatty bags. Nevertheless, if we consider its properties when applied topically, we can hypothesize that it might possibly prevent fatty bags and reduce watery bags.

The essential oil of immortelle could potentially slow down the formation of fatty deposits.

According to several studies in vitro, Italian Helichrysum essential oil appears to have the ability to inhibit the activities of collagenase and elastase, the enzymes respectively responsible for the breakdown of peptide bonds in collagen and elastin. The following median inhibitory concentrations (IC50) were measured: 36.99 ± 1.52 μg/mL for collagenase and 135.43 ± 6.32 μg/mL for elastase. These are the concentrations required to inhibit half the activity of the enzymes. If this property of the immortelle essential oil is particularly interesting for slowing down the onset of wrinkles, it is also useful for preventing the slippage of fatty tissues and adipose pouches, which are a result of the decrease in collagen and elastin production.

Furthermore, it appears that Italian Helichrysum essential oil may protect collagen and elastin fibres from oxidative stress, which is also responsible for their weakening. According to a DPPH test conducted during recent scientific research, this ingredient could halve the DPPH° radical by transferring a hydrogen at a concentration of 17.61 ± 0.16 mg/mL. The antioxidant action of the Immortelle essential oil would thus allow it to stabilise free radicals before they attack protein fibres, thereby helping to combat the appearance of fatty deposits.

The essential oil of immortelle could potentially reduce water-based puffiness.

Sometimes used to alleviate heavy legs and varicose veins, the essential oil of immortelle is known for its ability to stimulate blood circulation. If we delve into the mechanism of action involved, we find that this botanical extract could inhibit the synthesis of nitric oxide (NO), produced under the effect of the enzyme nitric oxide synthase (NOS). In doing so, the essential oil of Italian helichrysum would reduce vascular permeability and vasodilation, which would help to streamline microcirculation and prevent fluid stagnation. As the latter is the cause of water bags, it can be assumed that the essential oil of immortelle could help to prevent and mitigate this phenomenon.