I have DE(-) skin, what does this mean?

Skin Ageing BEGINNER

Oxidation Factor OVERVIEW

Sebum Production LOW(-)

The letter (D) indicates the emergence of the first visible signs of ageing when the skin is in motion . Fine lines are the first to appear and are the easiest to spot. They are typically located at the outer corner of the eyes. A change in skin texture or a lacklustre complexion may also be observed. These are generally visible around the age of 25. Indeed, from this age, we observe the start of a decline of about 1% each year in the production of collagen, one of the structural components of the skin, leading to a disorganisation of the skin's connective tissue and a change in skin elasticity. A slowdown in the renewal of epidermal cells has also been noted, gradually leading to a thinning of the skin's barrier function. In response to this phenomenon, water evaporates more and more: the skin then loses its luminosity and wrinkles become more pronounced. A decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid by an average of 6% per decade adds to this.

The "E" indicates that the skin is highly exposed to external aggressions (solar radiation, air pollution, tobacco, stress, thealcohol...), as well as insufficient sun protection habits relative to the phototype and exposure rhythm. These factors promote the production of free radicals, highly unstable and reactive molecules that can have a lasting impact on the skin. However, this action is normal in all living organisms that consume oxygen.

However, in the event of an imbalance between the production of free radicals and the body's natural ability to neutralise them, oxidative stress sets in and skin damage occurs. Indeed, these reactive oxygen species contribute to the degeneration of skin cells, both at the level of the epidermis and the dermis. All vital components of the skin such as collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, lipids and DNA find themselves under attack, thereby causing damage and malfunctions.

This oxidation process can thus affect the structure of the skin, leading to premature skin ageing or even cancer. Initially superficial wrinkles that gradually deepen, less toned skin and a duller complexion can start to appear, even before old age. To slow down their action and thus prevent premature skin ageing, the daily application of antioxidant-based treatments, in addition to an appropriate sun protection , is recommended.

The "-" indicates a reduction in the ability of the sebaceous glands to produce sufficient sebum (sebaceous hyposecretion), as well as a discrepancy in the synthesis of natural moisturising factors by keratinocytes, which give the skin the ability to retain water. Tightness, irritation, dehydration fine lines, redness, flaking, dull complexion... are characteristic of this skin type.

Indeed, this lack of lipids reduces the effectiveness of the hydrolipidic film. The skin then becomes vulnerable to all forms of aggression (UV rays, pollution, bacteria, etc.), triggering inflammatory responses, and no longer effectively prevents transepidermal water evaporation. Moreover, this alteration in the barrier function leads to a dysregulation of Langerhans cells (cells of the immune system), which begin to induce disproportionate inflammatory responses when they are overly stimulated.

Several factors can influence this low sebum secretion, leading to these disturbances: frequent washing, certain medicinal treatments, unsuitable skincare, seasonal variations, tobacco, UV radiation, genetics... However, although this skin type is more prone to wrinkle formation due to its lack of suppleness, it is, on the other hand, less susceptible to skin sagging given that its thinner epidermis suffers less from the effects of gravitational pull.