How to understand the texture of serums?

Unlike face creams, serums are intensive treatments that contain a relatively high percentage of active molecules. They thus provide targeted solutions to specific skin issues. Indeed, a serum does not treat a skin type, but the specific needs of the epidermis such as dehydration, dullness, accentuation of wrinkles, the appearance of blemishes, brown spots and redness, or even skin ageing.

The serum is a treatment that works deeply, despite its surface application. In addition to being highly concentrated, the face serum typically offers a more melting, thin, fluid and light texture than a cream. This feature has been designed to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the different layers of the skin. Thus, the serum can infiltrate more deeply through the skin cells and alleviate certain skin discomforts.

Furthermore, the application of a serum enhances the effectiveness of the subsequent skincare products used. Indeed, a serum is rarely used on its own. It cannot replace facial care, as, with its fluid texture, it does not serve as a barrier that protects against external aggressions and prevents the skin from losing its hydration like a face cream. Therefore, it should be paired with your regular cream.

As its name suggests, a serum with an aqueous texture is primarily composed of water and hydrophilic derivatives such as floral waters, aqueous plant extracts, and mineral waters. Due to its composition, the aqueous serum is by definition hydrating but not in the same way as a face cream. Indeed, its main role is to maximise the skin's water content, without necessarily retaining it. It can also have additional benefits such as soothing and rebalancing the skin's pH after cleansing, or preparing the skin to receive other treatments.

Aqueous serums are most often gelled, meaning they contain thickening agents such as xanthan gum, carrageenan (extracted from red seaweed), or agar-agar. Depending on the incorporation rate of these thickeners in the formulas, the serums are more or less thick. Moreover, the texture of the serums also varies according to the active ingredients present, some compounds being more consistent than others.

We have developed several aqueous serums such as the anti-mark serum that targets marks left by acne, the radiance face serum highly concentrated in vitamin C (11%), the pigmentation spot serum rich in brightening actives (2% alpha-arbutin and lemon extract), the exfoliating serum with glycolic acid, the plumping serum based on polyglutamic acid and red algae extract, the hydrating serum with 3% hyaluronic acid and 2% provitamin B5, the local imperfections serum with salicylic acid and zinc, the matifying serum based on azelaic acid or even the gentle peeling serum with 10% lactic acid and acerola extract.

The oily-textured serums are composed of lipophilic active molecules and vegetable and/or synthetic oils. They are formulated to address targeted skin issues such as dehydration, loss of radiance, or signs of ageing. This type of serum goes beyond surface-level effects. The active ingredients they contain penetrate deeply to strengthen the barrier function formed by the various layers of the skin with the aim of retaining more water. Indeed, these oily serums have a strong affinity with the lipid components of the epidermis. Their action affects both the hydrolipidic film and the intercellular cement. Unlike their aqueous counterparts, oily night serums like botanical blends can be applied alone after skin cleansing. Oily textures are perfect for evening use.

Among our facial serums, the wrinkle and fine line serum with retinol, the nourishing serum with squalane or even the dryness and blemishes serum which contains squalane combined with ceramides are oil-based serums. All our night serums also have this texture.

To ensure optimal absorption of active ingredients, it is generally recommended to apply skincare products from the thinnest to the thickest consistency. Therefore, as aqueous serums are often less thick than oil-based serums, they should be applied first on clean, dry skin. Below is a summary table of our serums.