How to take care of your skin at 80 years old?

With over 140 million people aged 80 or more worldwide, the elderly represent a significant portion of the population and should not be overlooked in terms of cosmetics. Over time, the skin undergoes epidermal and dermal atrophy, accompanied by a reduction in the number of fibroblasts. These fibroblasts then produce less collagen and more matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), involved in the proteolytic degradation of many extracellular matrix proteins.

By the age of 80, the structure of the dermo-epidermal junction is significantly altered. A study using biopsies of abdominal skin has indeed shown that its surface area is reduced from 2.64 mm2 in subjects aged 21 to 40 years to 1.90 mm2 in individuals aged 61 to 80 years. This loss of surface area of the dermo-epidermal junction, coupled with the gradual thinning of the overall skin structure, contributes to the weakening of the skin in older individuals and also exacerbates skin dryness.

• A focus on hydration.

  It is common to observe a water imbalance in older individuals. At the skin level, this is explained not only by the loss of volume of the skin barrier detailed above, but also by the gradual decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid in the dermis, a compound whose strong ability to attract and retain water makes it one of the pillars of skin hydration. At the macroscopic level, this results in a rough and coarse sensation to the touch, as well as discomfort.

  Dry skin can notably manifest itself through sensations of itching. A study conducted with 68 volunteers aged between 50 and 91 years old (average age: 74 years) showed that itching was the major concern for individuals within this age bracket. This discomfort was indeed reported by 83% of the octogenarians who participated in the trial. In the majority of cases, the researchers attributed these itching sensations to dry skin.

  In order to combat this concern and prevent itching, it is recommended toapply a moisturising cream morning and evening. Opt for rich textures and nourishing ingredients such as ceramides, squalane, vegetable oils or shea butter, which help to replenish the skin's lipids and prevent water loss. This contribution also helps to restore the hydrolipidic film of the skin, thus protecting it from external aggressions.

• The systematic application of a sunscreen.

  Another key element for taking care of your skin at 80 years old: protect yourself from the sun on exposure days with a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and covering clothes, and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen cream, gel, lotion, or spray. UV rays, which generate free radicals, are dangerous for the skin at any age. Although closely linked to sun exposure in youth, skin cancers can also be caused by later exposures. Indeed, the thinning of the horny layer increases the skin's sensitivity to UV and, consequently, the risks of melanomas and carcinomas.

The key takeaway for a minimalist and effective routine at 80 years old:

• In the morning: hydrate and nourish the skin with a moisturising cream and protect it from UV rays using sun protection.

• In the evening: hydrate and replenish the skin's lipids with a rich moisturising cream.

• GILCHREST B. & al. A Study of Skin Conditions and Skincare Routines in the Elderly. Archives of Dermatology (1987).

• WATSON R. & al. Review Article: A fresh perspective on ageing skin: the function of elastic fibres in skin ageing. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2010).

• TOKUDA Y. & al. Physical Indicators of Dehydration in the Elderly. Internal Medicine (2012).

• BLUME-PEYTAVI U. & al. Preserving skin integrity in the elderly: a systematic review. British Journal of Dermatology (2023).