How to take care of your skin at 50 years old?

Aging is associated with numerous structural and functional changes in the skin that result in increased vulnerability. In addition to the natural decrease in cell regeneration and fibroblast activity, which are responsible for the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, the skin of women at 50 is affected by menopause. This physiological process marks the cessation of oestrogen and progesterone hormonal activity, hormones that regulate the expression of insulin-like growth factors and increase fibroblast activity. Progesterone also acts on the sebaceous glands and promotes sebum production. Taken together, these various effects can lead to significant skin dryness, intensified by sun exposure.

• Do not neglect the sunscreen.

  In addition to having a drying effect and increasing the risk of skin cancer, the sun is one of the primary causes of skin ageing. Its mechanisms of action are numerous and manifest at the macroscopic level as a loss of skin firmness, the appearance of brown spots, and vascular disorders. However, the effects of UV can be countered by consistently applying a sunscreen before going out.

  A year-long study by SOUTHALL involving 32 subjects aged between 40 and 55 has demonstrated that the daily use of SPF 30 sunscreen can significantly improve all skin parameters related to ageing. During the trial, pigmentation spots were reduced by 50%, crow's feet wrinkles by 25%, and the texture of the skin was improved by 40%.

• Continue to hydrate one's skin.

  Taking care of your skin during your fifties also means providing it with good hydration. Weakened by the decrease in hyaluronic acid and sebum levels, it requires hydrating and nourishing active ingredients to rebuild its hydrolipidic film and horny layer. Therefore, at 50, it is recommended to adapt your skincare routine and apply a rich moisturising cream once or twice a day.

  This good habit protects the skin from external aggressions and limits water loss, as demonstrated by a recent study. Conducted with volunteers aged between 50 and 60, it focused on the effect of a treatment containing hyaluronic acid, shea butter, and sweet almond oil, among other ingredients. After 4 weeks of daily use, the average hydration level of the participants had increased by 33%, making the skin more supple and soft.

• Investing in firming active ingredients.

  On the other hand, the use of retinol or bakuchiol, active firming agents, and α-hydroxy acids (AHA), exfoliants that can improve pigmentation, is beneficial for mature skin. Indeed, by accelerating cell renewal, which slows down with age, and by stimulating the synthesis of collagen by fibroblasts, these molecules help to reduce the appearance of established wrinkles and make the skin firmer. Their effectiveness has been demonstrated by several studies.

  A recent clinical trial was conducted with 41 women aged between 35 and 55 years. Over a 12-week period, the participants applied a formulation containing 0.1% retinol, every other day for the first two weeks, then daily for the subsequent ten weeks. Analysis of facial wrinkles revealed a significant reduction in their visibility following the treatment, with a decrease of 63.7% in the cheek area and 38.7% around the eyes.

  Note : To minimise the risk of skin irritation, it is advised not to apply different products containing AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid...) and/or retinoids (retinol, retinol esters...) at the same time.

• Using antioxidants.

  Finally, when it comes to caring for your skin at 50, it is advisable not to overlook the antioxidants. By neutralising free radicals, these molecules prevent them from damaging lipid membranes, DNA, and protein fibres. Thus, antioxidants help to delay and combat photoaging, working in synergy with firming active ingredients.

  This is indeed what a recent study led by NELSON and his team has demonstrated. Over a 12-week period, 21 individuals aged between 40 and 65 years (average age: 56 years) applied a serum containing pyrroloquinoline quinone, an antioxidant, twice daily, and a cream containing a retinoid once daily. Following this treatment, a 55% improvement in skin texture, an 18% reduction in the visibility of wrinkles, a 40% decrease in redness, and a 28% reduction in pigmentation were observed.

To care for your skin at 50, it is necessary to minimise photodamage as much as possible by applying daily sun protection and antioxidants. It is also recommended to hydrate it and use firming active ingredients.

• SOUTHALL M. & co. Daily application of a facial broad spectrum sunscreen over a one-year period significantly enhances clinical assessment of photoaging.Dermatologic Surgery(2016).

• FARGNOLI M. & al. Enhancing Skin Ageing, Skin Hydration and Sensitive Skin with Four Specific Skin Care Products: Findings from a Single-Centre, Observational, Prospective Study. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications (2017).

• MACLELLAN B. & al. Estrogen-deficient skin: The role of topical therapy. International Journal of Women's Dermatology (2019).

• NELSON D. & al. Assessment of an advanced antioxidant and dual-conjugated retinoid/AHA cream in participants with FST IV–V. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).